Hope and Faith in Jakarta

Could a city of this size and character possibly exist without Islam or some firm faith? The scale, poverty and remarkable density. Five prayers a day, the muezzin's call. Before 5 a.m. the neighbourhood is awoken by the azan, followed a short time later, by the prayer proper. Allahu-akbar!.... As in the case of the Chow Kit Pakistani in Kuala Lumpur, the muezzin in Tanah Abang, five hundred metres from Plaza Indonesia where they fear radical Islam almost as much as in New York and London, is an outstanding talent. How the rhythm and tone would unsettle and unnerve people back home. Many Westerners would flee without a shadow of doubt, and nothing to do with the mujahidin or fear of mugging. The earnest, wholehearted plea, the petition to the ultimate power, would shake many. Presumably in the high-end shopping quarter where cars entering entryways have their under-carriage checked for hidden bombs, the call to prayer and the prayer itself is muted somewhat. (Though mosques are certainly visible around Thamrin City and Ascott towers.) Presumably the Christians and Buddhists in the community would be forced by the earnest example of the Muslims to respond in kind: wholehearted, deep devotion and no wishy-washy. Perhaps even the Chinese Buddhists might not be able to get away as in Singapore with some light and uncommitted form of the faith of their ancestors. They would feel too exposed in Jakarta and Indonesia generally. Can Christianity still be holding up in Rio; the faiths of Mumbai, Bangkok and Johannesburg? In all those places where movies, TV, sport, food, get-aways and Facebook provide less consolation?

         Marvelous warmth in the salutations again this afternoon the length of the walk into the city centre. A vendor at one of the stalls trading in Muslim caps had not forgotten yesterday's prayer-mat carried under the arm. Told, pointing to the crown, that one was right for head-gear thanks all the same, the chap responded, — But a Muslim one!