Sunday, February 28, 2021

Z’s Pics


Hard to recall now whether the first photo had in fact ever been sighted previously, a prize studio portrait of a radiant Bab in her mid/late thirties, strongly reminiscent of the silent screen stars of the earlier era. 

Zdravko had suddenly dealt the pic on Viber like a cardsharp one evening; morning his time it must have been. After coming to ask the year of birth of his great aunt, Zdravko was surprised at her mladolik, her youthful appearance. 

The beauty shone clearly without need of comment. 

His own mother opposite, leaning on the other side of the stand where the photographer had placed the pair, showed a broad face, closely spaced eyes and nose like a blade. Dear good Jovanka, the obedient, dependable niece in her mid-teens. 

It was surprising to come upon the aunt and niece featuring in a studio photograph of their own in that early Tito era. Decades later on the visits to Boka that bond and feeling between the pair would pass down at the meeting with cousin Joke.

It was strange the pride that could be taken in the beauty of parents or partners long after their deaths, even when survivors had aged themselves. It was not an uncommon occurrence. 

Only once one Saturday night after witnessing too much preening at the mirror had Bab made mention of her former beauty. Coming from an elderly woman and without any previous hint of the matter from any quarter, the declaration had been especially strange. There was only the wedding portrait in the house, long an object of mystification; the young woman there presented had been more or less discounted as mother. 

Memorably, in the Analects Confucius came to lament the common prizing of beauty above virtue. (1)

Z. rebutted the idea that the fine clothing displayed in his pic had been provided by the photographer. His branch of the Pavolvici had national costumes even in the previous century, he maintained. Prior to the assault of Mussolini’s troops the cache had been taken to a neighbouring village further inland for safe-keeping. There had been a locally famous Pavlovic ancestor a couple of generations back; outside chance it may have been possible.

Here in this photograph it was not a case of national costume, but impressively neat townswomen garb, unlike what might be expected of villagers, even in the case of well-to-do villagers in that corner of old Montenegro.

The second photograph was of Z’s grandfather Luka’s monument up by Our Lady in the village, an expensive looking structure that Z himself had raised, he said. For the photograph colourful bouquets had been placed either side of the central inscription. 

As the eldest grandson all the love from the old man had flowed to young Zdravko. The reports had come down. In younger days and now in later years that immoderate cherishing was apparent in the man, a boisterous, strong-willed and eruptive sort of fellow—characteristics of Number One Brothers, as the Chinese designation had it. A pair of Number Ones locking horns could be guaranteed to produce a spectacle in Montenegro, even in contemporary times.

After the initial meeting up at the JNA Sailors’ barracks in Pula, Istria, followed not long after by another at the University in Belgrade, there had been a twenty-five year gap in our communication. In the noughts Zdravko had compiled a dictionary of our village usage, after which some jesting had raised offence and led to another decade’s gap. Once we picked up again there came a flood of messages to-and-fro, calls and these particular photographs.

In her early seventies dear Jovanka had thrown herself into a well. The devastation continued to haunt us all and was unspeakable. Zdravko’s younger brother Nedjo, who was perhaps most closely attached to his mother, once said a determined suicide could not be prevented. It was Nedjo who had found the photo of his young teen mother with her aunt somewhere and presented a copy to Zdravko, who years later passed it on. Each of us could only ponder the image alone. Even wedding photographs were uncommon pre-war up in the Montenegrin hills.

The other two photos Zdravko sent were taken up in Village Uble, both featuring himself and both curious stagings. Uble sat 1,000m above the coast, back in the day only accessible by a rough, winding bridle path on the Morinj side and a longer, smoother climb on the other toward Herceg Novi.

Zdravko had returned to Boka after fifteen years in Switzerland, where his younger brother had long been established. Bijela had been chosen for his re-settling, a hundred metres below his maternal grandfather’s house, where his mother had spent extended periods in her youth with her beautiful aunt. Before his father died early, in their particular case there had not been a settling down on the coast. Younger paternal cousins of Zdravko’s were established a short distance above on the hill at Bijela.

Perhaps the first of the village photos was a spontaneous shot taken by the new Russian girlfriend, as the broad grin suggested. Zdravko was seated on a ridge in his work clobber holding a hand scythe in one hand and the grass or herbs he had just cropped in the other. A cigarette dangled from the lips.

In younger years, for Zdravko like for the whole of that generation who had forged a place for themselves in one of the cities, within Yugoslavia or out, the pedigree of the selo, the village was nothing but a source of shame. The flight from Village Uble had begun in earnest post-war. After the first war some of our villagers had taken up King Aleksandar’s offer of land in Kosovo. The herding out of the Germans and Magyars after WWII led to greater opportunities again up in the flatlands of the Vojvodina. With the living so meagre on Uble, many fled at the first opportunity. For all the better living in other parts, some eventually returned to Boka, if not to the village, just as others returned from America and elsewhere.

The last photo was almost as remarkable as the one of our two mothers caught together in the late ‘40s in the photographer’s studio, in Herceg Novi it must have been.

Here in this the forest dweller was pictured, the horseman and hunter returned to camp. A merry drunk perhaps caught in a moment of high-jinks. Spirited alpha male showing his biceps in the strongman pose in front of the burning logs of his fire on the ground, flames leaping high. 

The staging had been arranged in the cleft between a pair of dark hills, the evening early descended. Given the angle it seemed to have been a selfie.

Some few years before a villager at the upper end of the settlement had famously had his rifle wrestled from him by a leaping wolf. On the barrel there were teeth marks to prove it. Through the year there were now only a dozen permanent occupants of Village Uble; through the last few winters only a couple of households.

Zdravko would not be camping outdoors by his fire. In recent years the old house his father had begun to build in the early ‘60s with his brothers Zdravko had renovated. A road had been brought to the very doorstep now, he proudly informed.

Other cousins hunted wild swine in the higher hills and with the change of weather there had been bears sighted recently.

The heroics of the ancestors’ daily lives on Uble continued to captivate those of us who had been touched by them. It was an inheritance that was highly prized, for all that the ways of that life could never be recaptured and hardly even imagined, even by those like Zdravko who had spent their childhood there through the early phase of abandonment.

Zdravko swam now down on the beache below the house he had bought at Bijela. In earlier time none of our folk had ever entered the water. The struggling fisherfolk on the coast had always been keen to trade for the potato, cheese and meat from the hills. In his old age Baba’s father, grandad Rade, had thrown himself off the pier at Kumbor. 

There was a popular corso now under the lamps along the shore, numerous migrants from all over, Russians in strong numbers. Cafes and fine dining places had opened. Essentially it had become a suburban life along the three large bays of Boka Kotorska now, with views across the water and the dark hills ringing round. 

Up on Bashtik above the lower end of the village, where the folk from that quarter had gone for the summer pastures, the sight was thrown across huge chasms of space, where the small units of time below had no relevance. On the pastures and in the fields they had all gone barefoot, there had been hunger and great privation for many, all of it in the midst of a remarkable natural setting.

Three seasons of occupation, from early spring to late autumn, had been the long-held dream, renting one of the houses that were used as weekenders now. It might still be possible.

 

 

 

(1) Confucius’ Analects, Chapter 12

The Master said, "It is all over! I have not seen one who loves virtue as he loves beauty."

 

 





Thursday, February 25, 2021

Blanking Out (Second Visit)

 

Smoother engagement today with Al, good focus and clarity. A number of photos were shown him and all positive recognition. More thin he appeared, the general woefulness uncomplicated—it stood directly before you no possibility of avoidance, nothing other than immediate. There was little complaint from the man: the food was shit house, yeah; they lorded over him with their regime; nothing he could do about it. Thankfully the plums taken in were consumed with relish, over half a dozen in quick succession. At one point there was concern he was unintentionally swallowing the kernels. Even the less ripe of the remaining dozen would be perfectly OK later in the evening; Al wouldn’t be putting any aside for the morrow. Green grapes had also been brought, though it was the plums that were relished. Getting out to the garden was easier in his chair this time, a spot of sun found by the fence, the tall young tree before us and the Aboriginal flag fluttering behind. There the photos were displayed, the screen shaded for him. Johnnie Good’s pic of the thinking man, as Al had called it, and others of his earlier self only a couple of years ago, one of which made him laugh and the other not recalled. When the wind sprung up more strongly and the cloud came over it was time to retrace the steps. Almost an hour and half in all, though Barry’s ear chewing during the phone call in search of Al’s reading glasses took a good twenty minutes. There was some shared laughter at Barry’s well-known habit on the phone. Thought was the LRB front and rear covers could give reminders of something, the former spark perhaps; titles of the pieces in the larger font and the advertising too. A few months before when Al had been taken reading matter out to the flat he often burrowed in immediately, even before taking to the food that was brought and often forgetting his visitor. There was some of that again on the hospital bed. Ordinarily you just blank out, Al explained.

 

Tuesday, February 23, 2021

Peloponnesus


It was marginally better or marginally worse here than Williamstown? The bay and the beach down there inevitably tipped it in one direction. Remembering unlikely Greek George who first set up Java, the first café apart from what used to be called the Wog Shops. Got a serve for the cheek of $2 coffees suddenly in Yarraville. Such traipsing through the streets every way you turned—young mums pushing sleek prams; the novelty shoppers; lounging retirees with the old academic’s beards and neat kids. Some of the high-vis chaps had graduated from the pub to the cafes for their beers. The old guy from the house beside Aven’s former in Anderson Street was pretty much the only distinct Greek presence remaining in the neighbourhood; at least so far as definable quantity went. Did the renovated church get any patronage at all now? anything apart from funerals? Collecting the regular Yasous the old trooper and always ready to return, never mind his mystification at the ID. In Av’s day there was a son or two and long-suffering scarved wife. Aven herself guessed she must have been considered a terrible whore with all the comings and goings at her place. Decidedly shabby genteel, especially passing against all the sprucing. Shiny faded old windbreaker, fraying trouser legs and scuffed shoes. Possibly the family could afford to deck their patriarch more fittingly now and he stoutly resisted, determinedly retaining the old, worn garb. Wild hair, unkempt beard, worry beads. Lost the thread long ago, well over thirty years; barely into middle-age when he first began receiving the disability support and started circling the streets. The house now was worth at least a cool million, never mind the shabby up-keep. Did the man ever lay eyes on his parents again, brothers or sisters, ever manage a return visit? Didn’t appear to be the case pacing like that, peering at the faces searchingly. The lapse of time had stretched so far, his eyes now losing their colour. Narrow round through the hub, a couple of the outlets that remained Greek backstage allowing him a place at the tables despite the lack of coin. Stupendous when you consider the distinction the man has now attained in that figure he cuts, that rare individuality and uniqueness.


Monday, February 22, 2021

Caught In a Trap


Gotta avoid that look of pity for the world you’re falling into; not a good one. It can easily be sensed when it comes on; perhaps more easily since Johnnie G.’s pic of a couple of months ago down at Cirino. How difficult and rare was the Buddha evenness, that gold standard you’ve been striving/hoping for this last long while. In fact, truth be told, you can’t manage that, not really; it couldn’t reasonably be expected. Did you ever see such a cast of feature in the Balkans? The impressiveness Edith Durham was describing didn’t fall into that category; that was an altogether different kettle of fish. Not that the latter was a lesser form of coping/overcoming perhaps; maybe we didn’t need to concede that. The softening for passing pretty girls was coming off a wee better in these riper years. You were never a leerer of course, but that didn’t mean easy, admiring glimpses came along effortlessly. We can never see ourselves, Bab used to say. And, Ne vidis sebe, again when passing judgment on others.

 

 

 

 

NB. Edith Durham’s early writings on Montenegro and Serbia, before the latter (High Albania &etc.) switching to take the part of the Shiptars against their oppressors.

 

https://www.njegos.org/durham/chapter17.htm


 


Sunday, February 7, 2021

Pavement Passage (Paris at a Pinch)


Happily the particular issue of the LRB was found hung in the same place in Paperback’s front window, AU$11 at the improved exchange rate. The first page of the opening article immediately justified the purchase. All these years later surprising to be intro-ed to a notable C20th pianist never encountered previously: Emil Gilels, Odessa-born the year before the revolution. As well as the preceding on Beet’s music, the long paragraph of biographical tidbits delivered choice fare. The 60 apartments in Vienna because of arguments with servants and neighbours; the deathbed reference to the—formerly acclaimed—“shithead” (scheissekopf?) Napoleon; and then the useful grounding for the great composer of coded messages arranging trysts with prostitutes. All in all, better than anything scripted for the stage or TV James Wood’s unfolding. At the adjacent tables sat aficionados of the screen casting over this or that film, this or that actor, in this case with the tailor’s frontage dividing better than good distancing achieved. The young group preferred the more studied style of Self Preservation—close your eyes a moment and inner Paris nicely approximated. Some scrutiny was needed of the syllables of Mumbaimasala Toast. (Pellegrini’s was still stuck on minestrone & spag bol.) Upscale brasseries dispensed with price lists of vin on the boards. Certainly the appetisers here were reasonable, a range all under $20. From memory Enrico or Emilio was the maestro at American Tailor, man a shoe-in for any stage you care to name, operatic above all, audition not required. Three orders a week would suffice for a comfortable living at AT. How marvellous was this old worn shopfront with the corrugated tin and faded tiles. When Signor Santo first took over Pellegrini’s he had planned extensive renovations, until the clientele dissuaded. The sign must have come some time after the first coffee machine that arrived in this town. Some of the pall from Santo’s killing perhaps still hung over the place, although with the virus it was uncertain. Scouting at the Hill earlier a society madam had quizzed Pauline for some suggestions. She had read everything, whereto now? plaintively the lady. Dutifully Pauline escorted her across floor, stopping at the different tables, in her usual lower tone. A book a day was devoured by a friend or acquaintance of the woman, one possibly known to Pauline. Not far behind was the lady herself. Another Ferrante, perhaps, ventured P.? Well, was it the same pair of friends in this one? It would do well enough, then. Falling leaves on the pavement as one would wish; glimpses through the branches of the planter across Self Pres. What was the passing tote at the market over lunch, Play With Green? Uncontroversial. Pretty much gets the prevailing mood in this country. Foot of the Wood piece there was an advertisement for a pair brought out by Princeton: Hate In the Homeland & How God Becomes Real: Kindling the Presence of Invisible Others. Like venturesome painting overflowing the edge of the frame. Notwithstanding the Hilllady’s practise, gleaning over offerings and reading the better reviews more than sufficed, especially confining to the best practitioners. Light patronage allowed hold on the table the full hour. Rather a contrast to Nicholson Street. Here cool rich kids with their parents, prepubescent included, gave inklings Malibu and Greenwich Village.

 

 

NB. London Review of Books, 7 January 2021, “The Deaf Bear” (Beethoven), p. 3

 

 

Bourke Street, Melbourne

 

Thursday, February 4, 2021

It’s A Drag


I’m the seventh baby of thirteen children. I’ve got seven brothers and… Without dentures, still shapely, perhaps early-40s. (Many would judge 10-15 years older.) A few weeks before the lady had blasted an older chap for looking too hard, when there had been no indication. The woman was in company with Archie Roach’s great niece, a younger, robust lass missing one of her incisors, crossing together to the bottle-shop. Recently the great uncle of the younger had won a substantial Vic Premier’s Prize, for songwriting it may have been, or else life-time achievement. The former tent boxer from Charcoal Lane and Gertie Street made good; a beacon for his people. Earlier, a handsome young Ethiopian lad sitting on the boot of his Toyota was mock-warned by one of the other gals to get offa her car. Cool as you like lad fielding—slow head-turn, shake and finger pointing to his chest straight outta smoky jazz joints. Enjoying his fag perched there, a sneeze had dislodged another loose ciggie from his pocket it must have been, dropping onto the street. After he briefly went back to his café seat further along there had been a 2-3 minute window attempting to alert one of the guys hanging. Unsuccessfully, it turned out. A number of the guys here combed the pavements and ashtrays on the tables both side for far less.

 


                                                                                                                Nicholson Street, Footscray