Saturday, June 29, 2019

Trumpet Unmasked


Yr guy (Sorry!) gonna be super pissed being caught fr behind like this with Moon in the morning paper here. An absolutely GIGANTIC & highly unflattering bald spot, gleaming pink like baby pork. Xi and even Vlad could stick it right up him if they had a mind, fella wouldn’t have a leg to stand on. The photographer has got zero chance now of any admission to the lawn of the W. House for the reception of foreign dignitaries. Forget it. In the heatwave it musta bin the aircon blowing a gale, Don reaching out to the hand and unable to brush back in time. Hopefully Melania was at a charity event out of harm’s way. Even my hero Moonie looks to have gone for that delicate lavender wash that first appeared in Butch Cassidy it may have been, or perhaps one of Gregory Peck’s romantic comedies.
Hey! SIXTY MILLION followers on Twitter another In-Brief report had it. And you want me to get onboard that platform, Scottie?!...

Salam & Shanti
P


NB. Email to Scott in SOCAL. Straits Times, Saturday 29 June 2019

Wednesday, June 26, 2019

Waterfront


No overnight rain in Chennai, reports Mu with a screwing of face at the the counter this morning. Two hundred kilometres and ten hours out, the position was not so dire for Muttalib’s family. It was a surprise to find Chennai, the former Brit. era Madras, so far north on the Tamil Nadu coast, quite close to the border of Andhra Pradesh. The roads of course inland where Mu likely hailed from remained in very poor condition. Another report recently mentioned a famous six kilometre beach it may have been at Chennai which attracted thousands, or hundreds of thousands, daily. It had been the KV Auntie who had first mentioned the beach at Chennai. Visiting her sisters for weddings in recent years she had remarked that the beach was right there where they lived; they were almost beach-front. You were nobody of course without a prospect on the water, if not the beach itself. Here at the East Coast housing towers, where the development sat on reclaimed land, the occupants looked out on the steamy water where the prospect presented something rather like the Allied landing off Normandy 1944, with the container ships and tankers queueing for entry. Up in the ancestral village in Montenegro the Bastard Zarko had told of his famous conquest of a young wife from the Herzegovina in his late middle age. In presenting his case to the lady Zarko had listed all his assets: his extensive herd, his fields, money in the bank and house with a prospect on the water. At the lower end toward Morinj a few hundred metres from Zarko there indeed could be caught a glimpse of blue that must have been out toward Kotor or Tivat perhaps. A descent from the heights of near an hour for a woman in order to reach the coast; if she was carrying produce for selling at the market a good deal longer following the animal track. Like so many of the old timers, Zarko was a great raconteur. None could spustit ti, slip one on you, like a shepherd, Babi had suggested. All day up on the sides with the herd that was all they thought about, formulating their witticisms and ripostes. Last winter only two or three of the houses in the village had been occupied; all the others had descended to the water, or the lower slopes at least. As the Spring has come on the planting has started, a couple of weeks ago Zoro sending a beautiful picture of his potato field sitting in the rich, dark alpine soil. Ubajska krtola, tatters, continued to fetch premium prices down at Novi and Kotor, the fancy restos often buying.

Monday, June 24, 2019

Working For the Man


The night owls around here stop by for brekkie at noon. Like the Indian-Malay chubby chappie on his electric scooter, songkok and shades morning, noon and night, asking just now that his plate be protected from the birds while he fetched his teh. The Feeders roundabout were not deterred by the stiff fines and continued as before, here at Wadi discreetly dropping their tidbits between the aisles.
Yesterday Auntie Helen had reported being ticked off by a passerby for feeding the crows on the verge opposite the house. The chap had thought she was feeding the pigeons, but really the prohibition applied equally to all birds. Now Helen was left with a couple packs of beef she had bought especially that were much relished by the crows.
Often the pigeons did beat the crows to her repast, Helen had conceded with a downcast aspect like a sports’ fan having to acknowledge a superior opponent.
            In the car park coming out a little Indo shortie had been washing her boss’s late model Honda. Surrounded by her buckets, the lass stood on the lip of the rear door stretching on tippy toes in an attempt to reach the proper half of the roof. No chance like that, Honey. If the boss was one of the vile turds and tall enough perchance, he would pay out on the poor thing. Girl could have clambered over the fenders to ensure the job was done as required.
             Still in her teens this girl despite the law, needing to return to the flat for cooking the lunch, feeding grandma, cleaning, ironing, walking the dog and amusing the kids. Some of the employer ads on the sites underlined the need for self-motivation in the girls, finding work in-between assigned tasks. Understandably, it was tiresome endlessly supervising chores.
            Like birds of augury, at Wadi the Sweeps appeared in the gutter opposite shortly after noon, a gang of four with straw brooms, shovels and plastic bags, working ahead of the truck that protected them from being run down. Conditions had improved lately for the foreign workforce; there was competition now attracting the labour to other countries. Sometimes a laggard among the men would slip behind the truck stuck at a drain, yellow Wellies & Hivis keeping him protected, hopefully.
            The incidence of youth cutting leapt out of the newspaper unexpectedly this morning. It was mostly artless boosterism, cheeriness and colour dominating in the Straits Times, weekends particularly. The bad news occurred on foreign shores far and near—racial problems, conflict, crime, corruption, drought and water shortage. Currently Chennai was approaching utter catastrophe.
  One in three among the 18-24 year old cohort cutting themselves.
  The smiling technocrats steering the ship of State had very little chance of comprehending. Within this closely managed hub on the Equator the ignorance was perhaps more than any place else on the planet. (Tops for longevity, safety, health care & edu. by some measures notwithstanding.)

Wednesday, June 19, 2019

Fairies Messing With the Climate


Gotta get away from these fairy lights and glitter still strung up along the road here well over a mile. Put some distance between at the very least. The cabin up in the Montenegrin hills allures more and more, something like Heidegger in the Schwartzwald. Hiking in this case into the interior, across the border to Herzegovina, ferries to Italy, Albania and Greece. The train to Istanbul.... Well, perhaps the Muslim New Year of 1440 justified, though with the endless round here it was difficult not to feel the political strategy while the corporate wheels ground unchallenged ever onward. Many from the neighbourhood had not made a re-appearance since the new month had dawned, leaving the place with the kind of post-Chrissie vacancy that descended down in the South. Inevitably one fretted over some of the elderly, especially with the ghostly absence/presence of Muttalib at our usual perch. The new gal in the house too immediately adjacent annoyed with her need for lighting through the night. Early thirties IT unsurprising to be afeared of the dark perhaps. Lass slept with her bedroom lit all night, cuddling a favourite bear fair chance. (Despite all, soft toys, balloons, plastics and screens pacify a large proportion of the children here.) Nice lass with a free laugh, a little boyish and square. We joust for only the dining-room light immediately outside our doors being left on. To date the girl has been re-emerging after 11PM following her housemate’s brushing of his fangs in order to add the laundry bulb. An aged bladder being what it is, that particular light is extinguished 3 - 4AM; dinning conceded. In childhood Mummy and Daddy likely left hers on overnight to settle the child, if worse was not at play in the personal history. Indo-Chin from Jakarta, raising a brow at news of a stay in Tanah Abang — Land of Brothers, where the minorities were only evident in the great mall on the other side of the Ciliwung River. Interestingly, there was an Indian family at breakfast one morning at Kalisma, the mother and daughter waiting at the table for the husband to return with a chit from reception confirming their status as guests for the kitchen. A first at Kalisma; and certainly never Chinese encountered there.

Monday, June 17, 2019

His Way


After arriving this chap stood off from the entrance and delivered the old classic his way in a kind of resonant undertone. Man had a voice, the basis of something. It was a little hard to judge properly. Also in possession was a well-strung guitar that might even have been tuned. Some of the lyrics the young man may have fumbled and blurred; hard again to tell. Bit off more than I could shoe...? It didn’t matter—the surge of the rising lyric channelled around the corner from where he stood to the four tables within and strengthened progressively. But through it all.... There had been numerous performers one after the other with very little pause between them this Friday afternoon after the long fast that had shut the larger part of Sabang. The office workers’ lunch hour was short, no time could be lost. Some of the eateries had signs posted prohibiting entry to buskers; even the Padang place that had been patronised a number of times, only noticed that day. The large double table in the back corner that had been relinquished to the Chinese chaps had resisted all the earlier performers. The Frankie homage though deserved something one of the men there thought, calling the Busker over for the Rp2k. (Unless it had perhaps been two twos bundled together.) Rain had fallen earlier, twenty minutes of downpour that left people stranded beneath make-shift cover wherever it could be found. Many had been thoroughly doused and were drying off slowly. A panama offered little protection in such weather, in short order creating a saturated ring that clamped the cranium. Prior to the Frankie tribute the plastics collector who had been encountered a few days before resting in the shade of a tree by the Bunderan a couple of kilometres away had stood bareheaded in the rain out front of the café. What the man thought he was doing there for long minutes remained a mystery. The man stood as if in a daze, unaware of the rain. You would have expected a stream of water running down his front like on a rock face beneath a waterfall. A tall and broad surface the man presented, standing firm and motionless. Shelter might be taken by beggars, vagrants, plastic fossickers anywhere along Sabang; no-one would begrudge them. Yet this man held his place under the relentless rain, his thick black hair taking some sheen together with his beard; on his drab clothing somehow all the moisture was absorbed. Eventually his girl—mistaken for a child a couple of days before opposite him beneath the tree—appeared from this side of the street. Crossing to him she came with a red umbrella she had procured from somewhere. With the aid of her man the girl mounted their cart, sat herself high on one of the bundles and unfurled the umbrella. Between the arms of the cart in front where the man moved the umbrella did not stretch. The wheels of the lady’s carriage began to turn and off the pair slowly went up against the traffic in the gutter toward Sarina. It did not appear to be a new umbrella; not bought just then. Buying anywhere on Sabang—a Chinese enclave that included an early Robinsons store—would be expensive…. times I'm sure you knew…. The Busker may possibly have preceded the Plastics man on that dramatic Friday stage. With the latter however the triumph of love outstripped by far the corny fakery of the earlier age, that story of the Hoboken boy storming the great city on the other side of the globe. The Busker’s fine delivery was properly earned and justified only by the spectacle of the Plastics man and his wife. The Plastics man was given due honour and appropriate fanfare on that street by the honest Javanese crooner. The latter had found an appreciative audience among the patrons at Saudagar Café. Many of the buskers put in lazy, perfunctory performances; this man had given the complete song, as far as he could remember. In that office quarter it had played well for him before perhaps. The interlude returned to mind the acknowledgement the hill people of Western Montenegro gave the singer. Ko pjeva zlo ne misli, they commonly said on those high peaks. — (He) who sings bears no evil. In those old generations up in the wilds what that hill people could have known of song had long been a question

Sunday, June 16, 2019

Confrontation


Re: Distrubing Confrontation with Phoenix Police Captured on Cellphone Video

Almost unbelievable. Almost TV manufact.
Only in America. Couldn’t happen in Rio, Moskva, Beijing, nowhere else. Not maybe even Jo’burg in the darkest days 40 - 50yrs ago. (Current Philippines is something else.)
At least one of the offenders (uniformed) seemed to be either Black or Latino.
Almost irretrievable situation you would think, like climate ch. (Saw Gore recently down in OZ I think it was spruiking hope on it ala Obama, — citing so many countries reaching emission targets.... Effervescent Southern old gentleman hugely optimistic you would think level head.)



NB. Scottie in SOCAL despairs at the state of affairs in his country, sending regular news items indicating the position. (The typo is his of course. 😀)



Wednesday, June 12, 2019

A Nose For It


Nadila had got herself a vial of ylang ylang from the local outlet in the chain at the West Mall, about a third the price of that down on the Great Southern Land (Rp95k). It stood to reason as the kenanga flower was native to the region, not uncommon in Ni’s kampung. Just turned sweet sixteen on the first day of the Muslim New Year of 1440, Ni’s adopted daughter. Ni had wanted to buy her perfume as the girl had requested, but for obvious reasons had lacked confidence. At school the girls were forbidden to wear too much perfume. Back in the day, even in the days of teaching at what was then still predominantly a lower middle-class neighbourhood in Melbourne, there had been no need of prohibition. Who in the heck could afford scent or perfume? High price to pay for a newspaper trudging through that mall, especially to find the cupboard bare. (The street vendor on Sabang was closed an entire fortnight for the holiday.)  The JakPost might resume next week, the girl at the bookshop guessed, for what that was worth. Four escalators up, down and then across the tiles by the stores. Pull & Bear. One day that fashion house’s name would be investigated; the advertising budget for it must be astronomical. Pull the bear’s doodle.... Idiocy made no never mind in advertising. Shoppers ran the gauntlet stupefied in the main. This was the living. What was to do? Almost without exception groups and couples. These were outings like to the earlier parks and seaside. The nearby unwashed in the slums could not enter here; they never attempted the venture. Therefore the roadside peeing, by the men at least; the women got themselves completely out of sight somewhere. Starbs. There was satisfaction on the faces of all the customers at Starbs, phones making them smile on the comfy chairs and lounges. It was not possible to sit quietly at Starbs unoccupied. Most of the outlets were unknown, a good number not having penetrated to the Great Southern Land, or re-branded for that market perhaps. A chap at the watch counter near the bookshop and scents hefted a desired piece with a crowded face; from five paces one could tell the load of value in that mechanism within. Selling in the hall like that there could not have been much of jewels; still in Indo they were highly valuable articles. Malls-goers in this corner of the world were connoisseurs of horological craft. In the offices and business circles one was undressed without the accoutrement. (What hopes poor old Marx had invested in the example of the independent Swiss craftsmen!) Twelve hours wear on the wrist by say 35 years those weighty items would deliver more strain than for the tennis players who advertised them. Was the ylang ylang so cheap because of dilution? Ni herself agreed she had no need for scent; the better quality soaps were more than good enough for her. The night before the former orphan had complained that her birth mother cared nothing for her. The birth mother had spent a week in Magalengka before delivery of the baby there. Ni had a photograph taken of the pair of them, herself and this woman. In sixteen years since there had been no attempted contact with the girl. Nevertheless Nadila was lucky to have a loving mother, Nene and extended family. Understandably, the other thought of abandonment arrowed in occasionally. A kampung mum was of course all at sea purchasing perfume. Though Ni had never bought herself perfume, she was still happy to indulge her daughter a little. The three essential oils brought from Oz had more or less been completely emptied. Next week some more would be bought on the 3rd floor of the West Mall of Grand Indo, perhaps one for Ni too for her to use herself.

 

 

                                                                                                            Jakarta, Indonesia 

 

 

Monday, June 10, 2019

Rites


The buzz had sounded 10 or 15 minutes before. There was no reason to leap for messages now. Ten years ago the message had always needed to be read promptly; now there was no need.
​            A little shock to have Zee messaging, but she had not known about the trip to Jakarta.
​            Relations had cooled somewhat in the last number of months with Zee, since the Christchurch attack in fact, when there had been some differences. The young woman had sensed the matter and been a little sheepish at a couple of shy approaches at the Wadi table.
​            Hey P
                  8:39PM, when in SG it would be an hour later.
​            Have you heard about Muttalib?
                  8:39 still
Zee had been introduced to Mu at the Wadi table on one of the sheepish calling rounds. Her mother was a student at the Foundation Mu had established for the study of the Qur’an down on Changi Road.
What about him? He mailed me this morning
                  8:48. It had been under ten minutes getting to the phone.
The terrible news came through like in B grade TV drama. There was no way to deliver gently. Zee’s mother had just gotten word.
I immediately thought of you
                   8:56
TV drama reaction. Nothing else was possible in the moment, only raw shock. The terrible news hurt the brain and caused a wincing like a muscle in spasm.
Coming mid-afternoon, the death had left insufficient time for the funeral same day, as was the usual Muslim practise. It took place next morning, the prayers over before 9, Zee reported. For some reason best known to herself, Zee had attended, accompanying her mother perhaps.
Zee’s mother had been attending the Qur’anic classes at Mu’s Foundation for a number of years and thought the teacher was outstanding. Relaying that news at the time was of course welcome for the Director, Muttalib. The teacher concerned, a woman now in her early eighties, had been with Mu from the outset, seventeen or eighteen years. The Foundation barely broke even, but Mu had kept it up all the while. Two full-time teachers, rent on the facilities and special events. The local Muslims needed all the help they could get with the Holy Book, Mu thought.
Carried you in my heart throughout the funeral
                  8:59AM
Zee had meant the service. She sent an accompanying photograph of the hearse loaded for the trip to the cemetery. They mostly used little utility vans in Singapore.
The shock lingered in the days afterward, all through the day and into the night. On the first night Mu had come in a dream. We had returned from an outing to the Jakarta hotel door, where excuses were made at parting, Mu being obliged to go his own way.
Ni was understandably surprised at the reaction. I not hear his name before.
It had been an intense friendship, albeit one of only nine or ten months. Over the term Mu had come with Yola most mornings to the Wadi table. Sometimes he could not be joined for one reason or another. Altogether there had been well over a hundred sits at the tables on the edge of the outer passage opposite the hotplate, often of long duration.
Mu was a people watcher too, a man with an eye for the ladies; an acute, indulgent judge. A compassionate man of understanding, with depth of feeling in his case that was mixed with a good deal of resilient tough guy. Short of stature, Mu could easily be credited in his stories of confrontation and fisticuffs in younger days in the kampung down the road just past his Foundation, where he had grown up. After fisticuffs there had been blades too—a scar remained over one eye and another was on the back. The latter had been received while the perpetrator was getting his own in some dangerous place on the body that was now forgotten. There was still plenty of fire in the belly as Mu approached his mid-Seventies.
Over the seven year stay Mu had not patronised that corner of Geylang Serai. Mu had his own corners around the place, most of them over at the top end of town. For a couple of years he had run a café on the other side of Sims Avenue near the Post Office. Mu had been the silent partner there; an associate ran the place day to day. With his other much larger concerns, mostly involving trading oil, wood and sand, the café was a sideline.
Mu had done pretty nicely. Up until a recent accident he had driven a stylish late model Jag and lived in a condo opposite his Foundation.
Like speed dating, ours had been speed friendship. Frank, venturesome exchange had made our progress rapid, nothing being out of bounds. There was a great deal in common. In spirit we were both kampung boys, Mu of course having lived it and the hard edge of it too for a good while after earlier family fortunes had declined.
Mu’s English was among the very best encountered in Singapore. It came from extensive reading begun in the early merchant marine days and later augmented in business. The politics was shared. Relish—respectful and courteous relish—for the ladies was shared.
Mu came from a notable local family of Indian-Malay traders. A grandfather had been a bookseller and then the father it may have been moving to high-end porcelain, lamps and suchlike. A prominent older brother had been a writer and filmmaker connected to all the upper crust of the early days of the Republic.
Being one of a dozen children and toward the end of the line, Mu had suffered numerous losses. On top of widowhood some years before, Mu had had the terrible misfortune to have lost a daughter in early adulthood.
— Man had a heart like a baby, Zainuddin commented, who was close to the youngest brother.
Mu was a great fund of information on the local scene. Like Zainuddin, his Islam was beautifully allowing and non-dogmatic. For the Friday prayers he avoided the rabbiting of the sermon, always turning up late.
Mu regularly visited the graves of his wife and daughter. There was some guilt at the treatment of the devoted former—that of the usual kind for the alpha male.
That Mu had been a wild, pistol-carrying guy during the wheeling and dealing period was a trifle difficult to imagine. The plentiful booze and carousing likewise. Younger days there had been abundant weed too. In the Vietnam generation the Malay lads had gravitated in that direction, when the Chinese and Indian recourse was the beer.
In younger, more innocent days the kite flying competitions better fitted the man Mu had become in mature, reflective years. The former political Titan LKY had reported enthusiasm for the kites in boyhood. It was Mu who finally explained how the aerial combat was undertaken with the glueing of glass fragments onto the strings that enabled opponents to be cut down.
Mu in the pack of boys scrambling madly over the mud to claim the fallen kite was more like the Wadi morning presence.
Ni was surprised at the lingering shock. There was no photograph to show her of Mu. All the engagement had been far too intense to think of photos.
The grieving could not be shared with Ni. How to begin? On the return Zainuddin would be good for that. Unlike some of the firm and stout Muslims, Zainuddin would allow grief its proper term. The speed of the funeral and burial was one of the circumstances that deepened the anguish, especially when none of it could be witnessed personally.
Ni had attempted a premature return to our pleasures. It was not possible. Ni had immediately understood, though surprised again.
Among all the rest, it had been Mu who had described the odd particulars of Muslim burial. No doubt it had not been easy for him to do so.
Not all the details however had been seized; at least in that matter it had not been possible to drill down to the last details with Mu. Ni it was who was enlisted for that now that it was needed.
The dead being wrapped in a shroud had of course long been known. They were laid in the ground and the head turned partially to one side. That much had been clear in Mu’s account. Oddly, Mu had not mentioned the direction of Mecca. (Wikipedia was subsequently consulted.)
The other particular Mu mentioned had been striking. Particularly striking.
For the Malay funerals some earth was placed on the face, it seemed. Indeed, it had specifically been on the mouth. Mu had mentioned the mouth, stoppered up with earth it had sounded like.
At the Wadi table Mu had been watched many times at his breakfast. A careful, delicate eater who relished his prata and keema. Fried and oily Indian bread with mince was not exactly ideal for a diabetic.
— Once in a while, the Malays rebuffed challenges to their diet. In Mu’s case all the pleasures were not to be shunned. (Smoking and alcohol had been successfully eliminated.)
It was important to clarify the matter of the rites now; there was no getting away from it.
We had open caskets for Orthodox Christian funerals. Nothing whatever like this use of earth had been mentioned among our Muslim hill cousins.
Some land, Ni termed it when she detailed their own funeral arrangements in Central Java.
Ni had attended only a single funeral in her life, in her late teens when of a girl her own age had fallen from a jambu tree. From below Ni had watched her friend picking the fruit.
   Yes, in the mouth.
On the mouth it was perhaps.
Then the chin, Ni indicated.
The earth was placed particularly. Just a small handful, Ni explained. (Wiki had three fist-sized earthen balls formed by the gravediggers for the tilting of the spine, shoulder and head in the direction of Mecca.)
It was difficult to understand. Mu of course had noticed the reaction. Soil, he may have called it; just a small handful.
A wooden board was finally placed over the corpse before the covering of the earth proper. Again, Mu could not be grilled on the particular.
It took a short while to get clearly from Ni.
Strips of split bamboo were laid across the graves in Central Java at least, then the earth, the land loaded up on top of that.
Strictly speaking, the corpse was not buried in the ground at the funeral. Not at least in Central Java.
Over some time the weight of the earth would collapse the bamboo, Ni explained. Thereby proper burying of the deceased.
Strange. Ni had nothing to say about the heat of the Tropics acting upon a body left unburied. (Wiki reported prompt earth cover for Islamic rites, supervised by a male relative.)

However you looked at it, the procedure was exceedingly rapid. Breakneck speed in fact. Too rapid a disposal of the dead involved, it was felt in the kampungs of Central Java certainly.

​​​​​​​    ​                                                                                                                   Jakarta, Indonesia

Saturday, June 8, 2019

Ramadan Last Round (Jakarta)


Six wakes in the dead of night for sahur, the pre-dawn meal. This morning the wake had happened of itself, the house-boy’s knock only coming after ablutions. (Not formal Muslim ablutions in the case of the kaffir, merely the usual in order to get the sleep out of the eyes.) In Jakarta the meal needed to be completed by shortly after 4AM. Next door the young family of four with the fifth grandmother in the small room needed to be called repeatedly in order to rouse them. Ni looked forward to the morrow when eight o’clock breakfasts would resume, a living like that of the Sultans, she chortled. Fourteen years of domestic service had meant 5AM wakes throughout. Back in 2007 when she had been working for a Malay family in Sembawang had been her last Ramadan fast. Three hundred dollars monthly in those years in Sing, no off-day and trips on the weekend to JB tending to the family’s house there. Still, the hangbao for Hari Raya in that period had been something, over a month’s salary presented. How Ni reconciled the love-making all hours through the fast was unclear; certainly the lady needed no persuasion.
         A few days ago sitting by the window at the table the perfume of the mango on the tray had tempted her, as had the jasmine tea in its packet another day. As usual, in deference to the Fasters, most of the eateries around the city had raised curtains through the lunch hour, the staff serving very often themselves going without.
         A new prospective employer for Ni was an Indian Muslim who had answered Ni’s online advertisement respectfully and with fine words. Offering only a moderate wage, nonetheless Ni was enticed at the prospect. In the first mail the woman had stated her wish that her maid would wear a scarf at home in the presence of the husband. Nothing out of the ordinary for Ni of course. Ni was excited at the prospect of that employment. Living and working with a Muslim family, wearing the scarf again would help Ni return to the proper path, she said.
         Again, the visits to the Carpmael room notwithstanding. They were something else.
         Last number of days the large oil drums on the streets were having the cow hides attached at one end. On the other end they were unlidded. At a number of places through Tanah Abang the blue cylinders could be seen, raised horizontally on stilts. The second last day of Ramadan one man was found with a pair of sharp scissors trimming the hair of the skin that had been attached.
         It was only on the last day of the month that the festooned stages appeared where the drums would be mounted. In some places drummers beat out an energetic rhythm on the drums sitting along the path.
         On the eve of the New Year the drumming would keep up through the night almost until dawn, when prayers at the mosques would be held and later in the morning in newly bought attire the house visiting begin.

Friday, June 7, 2019

Busker & Beggar (updated mid-23)


 

Both could have been avoided easily enough of course, even though the first had stood immediately against the seat, albeit back turned to the main body of passengers.  

And of course, you really don’t seek to continue documenting the beggars of the region; only they compelled so strongly.  

A shaved head was all that was visible. Soiled parchment attire. Even from behind his years were easy enough to guess.  

Unaccompanied, but man oh man! What was that?  

Possibly something of his own composition. Prayers and passages from the Holy Book would have gone down well in the last days of Ramadan. This though did not sound like it.  

Despite the low tone, the man was making himself audible over the clacketing and the traffic. Bent your ear well and truly. This was drawing up from deep down. Tantalizing snatches of rhythm.  

If there were resistant faces showing among the passengers, no matter how stern, they were all ears for this man. The people on the back bench would have strained to capture. 

Imbecilically, you leant out of your seat an hour later at the Warnet PC, straining as if to recapture.  

The man was fasting of course. The Busker strata alternated fasting and starving; it was what gave them their depth of feeling.  

Daily miracles of this sort pursued one in Tanah Abang. It was little wonder they believed in all kinds of things in these parts—transmigration of souls, astral travel, levitation. Communion with the dead, naturally.  

 

The second encounter involved a lady at Sabang. Not really begging; not really on the job. Seeing the Bule stride by it was worth a shout.  

A hand stretched out, smiling and expectant.  

Woman was sitting on the dirty pavement beneath the shelf of a stall that had closed. Most of Sabang had closed days ago. Street lady; dirt poor. Living in the dirt.  

Likely special; or at least disturbed, understandably. Indeterminate age.  

In the quick she needed to be granted.  

As usual, the notes were divided in the pocket either side of the wallet.  

Did locals really walk these paths day by day without feeling the need to give? Having money themselves.  

There were coins too in the pocket. Four came out on this occasion. Three Rp500s was judged sufficient; the Rp1000 could be kept back for the angkot perhaps.  

Even before the coin was presented, the woman began shaking her head and calling in English, No! 

In a child-like whine, calling.  

The lady was not going to be treated so casually. No. No. 

Impossible to argue the case when she was adamant, seated on the dirty pavement.  

No meant no.  

A Rp2000 brought a smile. That was better.  

Only passing over were the hand and the misshapen fingers noticed. It was difficult for her to clutch and the note needed to be inserted between stubbed digits. 

 


                                                                                                                     Tanah Abang, Jakarta