Monday, April 30, 2018

Oh! To Broaden the Mind


Misplaced in the crowded Al Wadi seating beneath the single skin canvas, heat pounding. Silent scream at the newspaper was not helping any. Oh! for the intelligent critique of the Jak Post left behind in Jogja. Foul and horrid fare here as usual & forever. The appalling fixing and manipulation in neighbouring Malaysia in this election season was infuriating. No surprise the soft pedal of course—people in glass houses;&etc. A Prof. from Penang was given a couple hundred words for the sketched summary of the gerrymander in the dribbling language of the academy. (Redeliniation, malapportionment, arbitrary...) More and more still PR malarkey on the jockeys in the running to receive the torch from the tired incumbent PM scion. (4G leaders: Forging a team by collaboration...Don’t worry anybody.) Running how many months now? The local neighbourhood madrasah here—Wak Tanjong Al-Islamiah—to get $7.5m to extend their lease could perhaps be counted good news. (The same incidentally was made famous by the author in his piece published by the Canadian Antigonish Review, titled “Ibrahim and Ismail.”) The Hot Bods column in the Sports pages puke as usual. Attempted gleaming of the Robo-adviser leaning with both stubby hands on his adviser’s table exuding geniality, sorry, doesn’t cut it, Charlie O’Flaherty, don’t care how much of the ol’ blarney you can deliver. (Invest.) Above, beyond and top-most of all else was the feature on the enviously well-traveled Singaporean trio wielding the world’s most powerful passport and documenting with their pics their journeyings: — beaches, mountains, ex-disaster & war zones, caves and desserts. A “cabby-bodyguard” was hired by one venturesome chap in order to get to the hottest hot-spots. 116, 151 and 183 countries covered respectively and now presumably on the list for the Musk option further afield.

                                                                                           The Sunday Times, 29 April 201



Thursday, April 26, 2018

The Parade


The people down by the rail-line at the crossing come along pretty much like their counterparts of what? 150 - 60 years ago in the ever-expanding North American states to watch the great iron beast power by. Tonight a little boy up on the wheeled fencing was shaking the top rail and leaping up and down on the bottom as the night wagons to Jakarta were pulling in to Tugu. As Ni suggested in her example late last year on the JKT - Bandung for the first time in her life, a great many people have never had the opportunity to travel on the giant behemoth that traverses the entire island. 
         For the greater part of the day there was no intelligible answer for the vacancy on the streets. Almost none of the stallholders on Malioboro had come out, leaving the usually bustling thoroughfare quite ghostly. Even Mas Willy had failed to show for his shift at Red Palm, Mas Tyo of the morning initially unable to explain why. Eventually, the mystery was solved: it was the Sultan’s birthday, the local Yogyakarta royal. On the same day there was a new prince in the house of Windsor, but not everyone in Jogja knew that.
         At Semesta in the evening for supper the amputee in the yard showed up close as in fact a young lad perhaps still in the first half of his twenties. Looking from the table in the dark and under the shadows of the trees, the chap’s gait in particular had suggested an older, more robust man. With some light catching the face, one wondered whether it could possibly have been another just happening to have lost that same portion of his left limb. 
         There must have been an added streetlamp now that somehow robbed this young man of all his former presence. It took quite a time to see again those swinging hips and confident tilt of the head, awaiting the rupiah from the cashed-up patrons parking.
         And while we are on gait, gesture and manner, let it be known, those fine fattie girls at Ayam Pedas could never cross the floor in Sing. as they do here. Neither in Melbourne, nor many other locales. 
         Call them fattie, if you will, more than a little rotund certainly; but they get by pretty well here, easy to tell. They are appreciated and often get asked—like that confident young lass of the same proportions in the padang place on Sabang, in Jakarta, where the older fellow hung at the register chatting her up properly, until he could pass his number. 
         Beautifully managed hidden allure, a flowering ardour ready to blossom from beneath those layers of thin, glossy fabric. Catwalk girls swing their legs strongly one in front of the other in the fashion shows; these short, more rounded lasses twist and swivel as they go, reminiscent of some kind of mechanical or industrial spindle, coiling thread perhaps. 
         The longer glide down the street in another body type is something else again, captivating in an altogether other way in Java. This Botero-proportion bustle and swish was a thing of its own precious kind.


Monday, April 23, 2018

How To Tell Hendrikus?


Hendrikus told a little tale of what he termed “selfishness” this afternoon at the old Malioboro library involving his Belgian friend. This woman was a serious Indonesia enthusiast, speaking both proficient Bahasa and also one of the Timor Leste languages, in addition to her two or three European languages and Esperanto. A talented and devoted linguist who had a PhD from Brussels within the field presumably. The woman, similar age to Hendrik in his mid-thirties, loved Indonesia and visited annually, staying ten days at a stretch. As a visitor to the library on Malioboro Hendrik at the counter had made the acquaintance. (Hendrik had been working the last few years digitising Greater Yogyakarta’s newspaper archive, which took him to the new library a few kilometres out of the centre where he met fewer foreigners now.) Over four or five years a good friendship had developed with the Belgian and Hendrik confessed he had fallen in love with her. The woman was soft and sensitive, according to Hend, similar to Indonesian women. For an odd and surprising illustration of this latter Hendrik told of riding on his bike with the woman, always of course an ordeal in a helmet under the tropical sun. When the pair arrived at a particular destination Hendrik had seemingly been charmed by the tears that came to her. This had reminded Hend of his Javanese beauties riding daily in this heat from earliest days? It was rather odd and unexpected to hear. The conclusion of softness and sensitivity granted however. Almost certainly Hendrikus had not acted on his feelings, nor divulged them to the woman concerned; perhaps the Belgian guessed well enough. Hend was married to a pretty local gal, in the main a contented husband. Which didn’t of course mean feeling could not radiate elsewhere in the usual way. With numerous visits to Indonesia, many likely predating the initial meeting with Hendrikus, the Belgian linguist had formed a number of friendships, among which there was a local Indonesian mother-figure. Such relationships were not unfamiliar in other countries and among other cultural groups: far from home, an enthusiast adopts one particular maternal figure whom they have claimed as mother-in-a-foreign-land. Migrants in displaced communities commonly resorted to the practice. (Bab back in Melbourne had been majka to many Serbs, Croats, Macedonians and others.) In Indonesia the practice extended to regular foreign visitors. Hendrik’s example of “selfishness” occurred at this local mother’s house. When Hendrik dropped off the woman, the Belgian, at her Indonesian mother’s house after one of their outings the perfunctory goodbye he received rather stung him. The Belgian had apparently dismounted, offered farewell with the wave of a hand, opened the door to the house and entered without further ado…. One needed to imagine Hendrik looking on from the seat of his motor-cycle at a wave of the hand from behind, as he demonstrated this afternoon; the door of the substitute mother’s opened, closed and banged a little perhaps. Nothing of real moment. Discourteous and casual, however, for one accustomed to better graces. When the Belgian linguist had this “selfishness” pointed out to her she had laughed, whether from embarrassment or some other reason was unclear. As a Catholic Hendrik was concerned with the resurgence of radical Islam and terrorism. There was some Belanda, Dutch ancestry in the family a few generations back, including an evangelical grandfather who had conducted lay missions in Lampung, South Sumatra, where family remnants remained. Sometimes Hendrik thought a re-location to a Western country might be a good thing. It was difficult to maintain faith in meaningful change for the better in Indonesia; the country had gone backwards in recent years, according to Hendrik, the economy stagnating and inflation particularly a serious problem. (By contrast, for all the financial graft in Malaysian politics the country continued to surge forward.) Airfares were expensive to Holland, and immigration more difficult since this turnaround after the refugees and the rest.
         How to tell Hendrikus? And how to tell a Westerner too what the heck Hendrikus was on about with his summary judgment? (Might the Belgian linguist have seen enough in her trips to Indonesia to comprehend?)

Friday, April 20, 2018

Old Virgins and Other Hardship



Down along Mangkubumi hoping the cloud might pass. As in the Malay quarter of Singapura, naked fruit carried in hand on an overcast day, particularly flaming bright mandarins, produced the usual magic. Fire-breathers and jugglers could never win such rapt attention. The fourth orb needed to be kept hidden in the shoulder bag — there could be no excuse rebuffing one of the petitioners on the street in possession of such a hoard, ancient old ibu in particular who sought only with their eyes. Lightest drops thus far, visible in a puddle from the early morning pour. 
         On the street in every quarter the young teen mums and dads that bore out the newspaper story of the last few days: in Indonesia the rate of teen marriage continued to hover around 25%. Today an article focused on a valley out behind Merapi where the folk explained the long-standing practice. On the one hand it was better to formalize a union and avoid illicit relations; on the other the custom had always been of mid-teen marriage for girls and later for boys. It was difficult rebuffing a marriage proposal too without giving offence and creating serious trouble into the future. In these agrarian communities old virgins of nineteen had always been a source of family shame. (In old Montenegro none were more pitiable than the stare cure, old maids.)
         The fifteen and sixteen year old mothers on the street in this community might make a better fist of it where grandparents and often great-grand could be called upon for expertise and aid. The urban village too raised the child here.
         At the early opener Jamal Edan Angkringan near Pak Antun, which didn’t open until the evening, the teh jahe, ginger tea for some reason lacked flavour. It was real ginger and generous slices in the glass; perhaps gone stale and soft. A good perch even so, tables provided and the passing parade touching distance.
         No doubt longer term travelers, or people who settle properly in second and third world countries, become habituated to the hardship and struggle evident all round them, hardly distinguishing one kind from another. It could not be otherwise; cosseted newcomers only were shocked by the sights. One recalled lovely young middle-class Lizzie, a teaching colleague many years ago in Melbourne, reporting her trip to India with her boyfriend. The pair had landed in Bombay, as the city was still known then, and the bus ride from the airport proved more than enough for Lizzie. In her hotel room she unable to stop crying and could not emerge for a number of days.
          The work-crew laying the new pavement down the bottom end of Malioboro near Hamza Batik were greeted here and there along the path. Toughened young lads in short pants, ragged tees and flip-flops benefitting from good cloud cover and as important, good camaraderie. Safety shoes, hard hats and gloves — kosong. There were none. In this setting in their native land, however, there was none of the heavy woefulness attached to the foreign crews in Singapore under the supervision of the local Chinese foremen and engineers.
         Good humour evident. Buoyant spirits. The old becak drivers and passersby chatted with their fellows. Without the foreign taskmaster an entirely different cast to the scene.
         Not much hi-tech here. A bulldozer had been on hand the day before. On this particular day it might have been called elsewhere and the cartage of the screenings for the concrete mix needed to be done by hand.
         This was not the first time such a tool had been seen in Indonesia. Seeing it again that afternoon the shock was the same. This traveler was still raw for such scenes.
         By the driveway beyond Hamza a lad was bent double at his toil. This young chap was not working a trowel or boxing in the path. This man was shoveling screenings — bent double because the shovel was only a shovel loosely understood.
         A shovel minus a handle here. Instead of a handle there had been a couple of holes drilled either side of the steel head and a wire looped through to make a handle of sorts; something like the handle of a housewife’s shopping basket. (Gloves would have been useful here.) 
         Shoveling like that with the truncated implement two metres at a time from pile to pile. 
         Lads laughed, stretched out their arms, tilted back their heads. What was to do?
         In through the entrance at Hamza was another world where one was ushered by costumed elderly, even ancient folk who stood either side bowing their heads and hands clasped prayerfully. Fridays and weekends a little gamelan ensemble played opposite the register. The workers on the street could not afford Beringharjo batik, much less Hamza.
         In the cafe on the top floor the trannie in her elaborate persiflage was always tricky to encounter. Fantastic adornment of which she was proud. It was a wonderful stage set for her there over the wooden boards with all the statuary and screens off-setting. The woman created a captivating presence and often received requests for photographs. Not all Instagrammers in Indonesia could boast such a figure in their suite of pictures. 
         In the foreign language one had bumbled Mas a number of times with the thanks for service. Pal or buddy. Then on the afternoon of the work-crew downstairs an impromptu correction only made matters worse.
         Ibu was mother strictly. In fact nothing but mother. Less than appropriate.
         Would Mbak be best for this lady? the common for young, unmarried girls beyond their teens.
         Six years on still plenty of learning remaining.

Wednesday, April 18, 2018

Moonshine


Near half two on the third visit this time round at Pak Muh’s stall at Beringharjo, high time Anton in the yard received something to slake that mighty thirst of the man’s.
        The usual hand at the throat signed.
        OK Anton, granted. Lads, a drink for the chap.
      As always, brilliant kampung folk in attendance at the tables with their bright, lively eyes, furtive looks and ready greetings. Opposite a pair from Kaliurang way. Merapi, the chap had initially answered. The steaming mountain gave secret pride to the inhabitants on the slopes. Faint-hearted orang lived down on the flat by the rivers keeping birds in cages and finding excitement on their screens. There had been no word for a stretch now of any kind of eruption; lately Sinabung on Sumatra and the other on Bali had stolen Merap’s glory.
         If Anton—and not the more usual Antun—traced some Belanda or other Euro admixture in his family line it was unapparent in that thick-set Java Man form. Well, perhaps a more fixed scrutiny might suggest something. Parachute Ant into a Macedonian gypsy camp there would have been hi-fives and back-slapping alround.
         Not surprisingly, this afternoon Ant’s sidekick eventually got in on the act himself trailing on his pal’s coat-tails.
         What about me then, hey?
         Just testing the water; flying the kite. Past visits following Anton this chap too had received the occasional beverage.
         Good and well. Another then there lads…. Yes, him too, when the drinks waiter sought clear confirmation.
         In the brief indecision, the to-and-fro, there seemed to be some by-play between the lads at the choice of drink here. Perhaps this fellow was going for top shelf, an iced lemon maybe with extra sugar.
         To-and-fro through the wire fence.
         Playing funny buggers ah? Can’t make your mind up? What about for you a draught of oplosan maybe?
         An explosion. Big tonnage too in that cavernous space and reverberating out into the yard.
         Far out! Hilarious! A chorus of a dozen at least, both male and female, returning laughter.
         The blaring had been carefully timed and bruited loudly. Heard by every diner, passerby, all the lads in the cycle yard, their customers and right the way round that central part of Pasar Beringharjo.
         HAHAHAHAHA.
         Even without the recent news there would have been great gaiety. Two or three years back there had been a famous song by that name playing endlessly the length and breadth of Malioboro. On Youtube innumerable renditions made it hard to find the original. The original was a fantastically raunchy slow-beat version masterfully arranged. A killer.
         Oplosan, oplosan….
         The man had claimed the girl’s heart; she couldn’t get him outta her head. A demon lover beyond compare who unfortunately was given to the demon drink. Something like that the lyric went, though it was the arrangement that captured. Limp imitators fell entirely flat.
         At the time it had not emerged that the moonshine was in fact called by that name: Oplosan.
         A week ago a bad batch had done for over a hundred drinkers out in the West around Jakarta and Bandung.
         Ten points to the Bule for that witty little grenade.











Pic. 1 The camp kitchen @ Pak Muh, with the ablution stalls at the end of the passage and the motor-cycle yard adjacent. (The little mussolah where the girls and women perform their prayers is just around the corner.)
Pic. 2. The eating area.

Thursday, April 12, 2018

Holding On


An optical illusion likely, but this new cycle attendant out front at Semesta appears to swing his amputated arm more than the other. The thought was looseness from the lack of weight at the end—the mangling here had occurred in the hand and wrist. Something to be grateful for the fact it was the left, a small mercy. Could he still manage a bike in motion on the roads? That loss would also be a severe limitation for a man here—wheeling the cafe patrons’ bikes for parking as much as he could manage. In stride in soldierly gait the man seemed to have little control, the short arm flopping about like a fish on the end of a line. Nerve ends and tendons shot and possibly he was still becoming accustomed to his condition.

Wednesday, April 11, 2018

The Guard-House & The Prince



 Scenes In and Around a Guard-House

The rich luv, just luv to death the secure. Gotta keep em safe; and lottsa not so well-off around the place don’t forget. Stalking ‘em it sometimes feels like when they’re walking to the car door, to the resto and the office. Sends a chill.... Well, that’s overdoin it in these parts, but you know what I mean. Can’t get enough secure. They’ve got state-of-the-art fighter jets, missiles and the like here, if any of the neighbours wanna get narky. But the worry is the dark gardens round the towers, out beside the pool late night and the carparks. What about deliveries? Who really knows what’s lurking in those trucks and vans that come in by the gate? It wouldn’t take much to hurl a rudimentary petrol bomb up against their windows, grab one of the children coming home from school outta the hands of the maids. CCTV, floodlights, gates and barriers need backup from the human element; another layer if nothing else. Therefore Yana @ $70 per 12 hour shift. (Boss gotta pay another $10 levy because he’s a foreigner, never stops reminding him.) What did he say, three through the day and two nights? Beaut gig that particular one, according to Yana, because it allowed plenty of kip on the guardhouse floor under the fan. Enviable slot. The people upstairs don’t know that of course, they think the uniformed Sec. boys are watching out for them every tick of the clock, patrolling the grounds, checking rubbish bins for suspicious parcels. No joke, the really conscientious supers want to know who threw what into the garbage cans






Fantasies of a Prince

Yeah, pretty memorable Charlie caught in that perkiness. Was it a driver/retainer betrayed or they hacked his phone? You can magine Camilla’s canny courtesan ways getting the poor sod on a string, poor young Di unable to hold a candle. Almost unbelievable. I liked too the recent tale: — Charlie needs some quality time-out meditating at the monastery on Mt. Athos, the biggest and most famous Orthodox retreat in the Balkans. (Greece near Stamboul.) For the four day stay C. brings along FORTY-SIX I think it was trunks & suitcases. (Charlie’s usual routine is five changes of clothes a day. I always wondered how he could look roses like that alla the time.) Suggests he did his communing with the single greater power upstairs in his usual suit, tie and lace-ups., otherwise god mightn’t recog. him and all the prayers and petitions for world peace and the saving of the rhino fall on deaf ears. Google Prin. C. Athos and see if you think its leg-pull. I know it sounds false invented, like that tampon tale. Poor FFFF-er now has to put up with a darkie for daughter-in-law after his ex-wife almost landed a dirty Arab in the family circle.

 NB. Two more unrelated fragments from email exchanges with a Royal-Watcher down in Oz.

Tuesday, April 10, 2018

Another Return


Twenty-eight months later changes at Pinang Merah, Red Palm and the Malioboro area generally. The little baby girl at the losmen has a baby sister now and is a baby herself no more. The old ibu initially mistaken as the resident grandma remains herself and the old animist granddad outback same. The pair is in fact unrelated; it seems the former is a kind of long-term family servant—the laundry service here is her province and also most of the cooking; in her old age the cleaning of the rooms now falls to the duty manager. The old man is great uncle to Adhie who runs the place for the extended family and keeps out of the main house. (Almost certainly Adhie’s mother, a regular visitor to what was once her former home—a widow now—endures the old heathen on sufferance.) Adhie is father to the two girls.
            A new manager has been installed by the name of Tyo. (The former, Wahyu, an ambitious and prize-winning film-maker, was never going to hang around too long.) Sounding like a given name, Tyo is actually family name: the young man in his early twenties and purblind—holding paper and phone hard-up against his thick lenses in order to see. Recently returned from his English studies in Papua to his native Jogja because of some trouble here.
            Reports of few tourists lately; Malioboro is certainly far less crowded. And this as the hotels continue to rise and municipal works powering ahead. One side of Malioboro has been re-paved, seating added and new bus-stops built. The old buses too have been replaced by more sleek models, which seem to have immediately impacted behavior. You have to worry what another two and one half years will bring.
A couple of hours after arrival Pieter the Belanda, a make-up artist from Amsterdam, turned up at Pinang Merah with an interesting family history to divulge. Pieter’s grandmother was Javanese from the Eastern side of the island and married in early teens to a Dutchman. As a child during the war the mother experienced things that clearly left a mark upon her. The family had decamped to the Netherlands in the early fifties and when Pieter brought back his mother forty-five years later the woman could not enter the darker alleyways and needed to get off buses when the passengers pressed too close.
            The "mixed blood' back in Holland, as Pieter called them, are a sizable, identifiable group. Even Pieter who appears as Dutch as any of the figures in the paintings of the old masters can be picked by people with a keen eye; picked particularly by other mixed bloods. Manner and gait was the give-away Pieter suggested; the liquid, feminine walk of the Javanese one of the tell-tale signs. As an experienced and credentialed illusionist, Pieter has his own sharp eye that can quickly penetrate ethnicity and all its telling giveaways. The game in the glossy fashion mags was second nature to a man of Pieter’s history; a life-long study from earliest days.
            The becak driver Paijo is on his way back from his kampung out near Cilicap. Naya who has been teaching in Malacca for a few years in town. Amri and her painter husband Luddy hopefully will be met in the next few days too. For the dental work a decision to proceed  only as far as the simple fillings—with its peeling paint and rising damp Bu M.’s surgery does not inspire confidence for Xrays and more sophisticated procedures.

Friday, April 6, 2018

Dark Side of the Moon


Down there in the urban centres one gets almost nothing whatever of the old stuff—god, the moral codes, death & the after-life. In these communities all that’s ever present. Imagine, so many prostrating themselves FIVE times EVERY day without fail. The other day one of my young friends took me to a famous old saint’s tomb down by the docks—surrounded incidentally by dirty great towers, J P Morgan, Westin &etc. Saints are present to us Muslims you know P, says Zee. Oh yeah. Chatting we came to the contentious matter of the combining of prayers; ie. No.s 3 & 4 together say, cos you were pressed for one reason or another. Zainuddin with his relaxed attitude to such outward observances commonly did that, the young woman was told. Nazeera gave a pitying look, taking care to remain respectful as she knew of the esteem in which the old Sufi friend was held. Impossible to imagine the difference compared to down there. Dark side of the moon.

(Another excerpt from an email exchange with a friend in Oz.)

Wednesday, April 4, 2018

Tireless Courage


UNDETERRED.... Pillar got in the way and the car was beginning to move. Quick-step onward. A van it was. BY DARKNESS, or THE DARK?... UNDETERRED BY DARKNESS. Gothic. Mystical. Wow-wee!... There had been too many When Opportunity Meets Dedication, Endeavour whatever tees sighted in the last few days, a number borne by the most unlikely looking types. There had been a clearance; they were popping up in dark dingy corners sported by cleaners, riff-raff & whatnot. The continuum was advanced here by Undeterred. Five – six percent of the population could field that term confidently without recourse to aids. Here the particular enterprise was only caught as the van moved off along Onan up into the gathering Geylang gloom. Singapore Post no less. Yes, it was no joke: Sing Post was undeterred by darkness. Resolute. Determined. (Excuse me while I retch in that planter there by the plumbing shop. Ah! Sorry bout that.) Nothing could deter; and certainly not the evils of the dark. By dawn there would sit the parcel and letter sent by loved ones in the bottom of your letterbox by the escalator near the foot of the stairs. Go fetch whenever you may care. Sing it loud and give a cheer! the P. O. worked through the night here; tirelessly, let it be known. Neither potholes in the road nor any satanic force would bedevil or deter. Valiant all weathers and all hours. The city could sleep snuggly and unperturbed. Golly! Always nothing less than riveting the sloganeering here; inspired copywriting. There would have been back slaps and hi-fives in the agency for this one. (There was often an evangelical tone.) It was a Chinese thing; one thought back to the old placards of the Mao era, — Let a thousand flowers bloom.... The government was tiresome here too, always the best foot forward, full of action and stir. The insignia was the thunder bolt. In Indo and Malaysia you might put the missive in the post-box and best to follow that with earnest prayer. (Where was there any dark on this island by the way? The shots of Earth Hour recently in the newspaper raised a giggle.)