Friday, May 16, 2025

Another Killer


 

At the lifts leaving for the airport stout unshaven guy in black with sunnies. Greetings as usual... Where you from?… Oh. You speak so well. Very well.  And where you going?… Oh. Oh… The heart beating at the mere mention of Montenegro. Montenegro. Touch at the breast. Bowing of head. Patting the stranger… Yes, yes. Shared. Shared; same. Fifteen years last visit; going down to see remnant family. Melbourne so far away... Oh. Oh. More pats... Zenica himself. Yes. At one time the Petrovic clan of the poet had lived there; originated, he might have meant. Something else about one of the Royals. Always overcome when he found a connection... Yes, know a little, of the poet at least… Speak so well…Kids in the hotel, large school group, hogging the lifts, having fun...It’ll come. It’ll come. Don’t worry... You know it’ll be cold outside. You want me to get you some socks? Man was staying on the 4th floor too, seemingly… Oh. Many thanks. No need. The surgical stocking just for the veins. Many thanks, it’ll be fine. Many thanks... Nesho. Pavle. Oh. Fine name. Pavle Djurisic. Yes. (Chetnik Royalist leader who the Commies might have hung at the end of the war as a collaborator, whatnot. If that was correct. Revisionism big, big time now.)  Zenica was recalled from one of the theatres of war; must have been Bosnia. Doubtless atrocities; they could not have escaped. There had been mentions... And where are you going from here yourself, Nesho? (Short for Nenad, like Slavo’s nephew in Nis.) Oh. No, no. I live here... In the hotel. (€65 per night regular guests basic room.) Ah. Gee. Hmm. Hardly fitted the bill; not likely. The new class had become familiar in ten days in Vracar. Nesh wasn’t going to fit at any of those fine tables… Specialac. Vojska. Army… Oh. Oh. Gee. Ah… Da. Bilo je svasta. Lots had happenedImmediately on the 3rd couple with cases undecided about entering. Small lift... Welcome. Welcome. We’ll squeeze...Common expression added too fast to catch...Sorry, I’m a bit of a fattie... You like your cevapi, hey Nesho? Pleskavice… ‘Tis true. I do. I do... Vegetarian myself... Oh, we’d never get on… Oh, but we would, Nesh. How not?

 

                    Vracar, Belgrade

 



Monday, May 12, 2025

The Vračar Plateau

 

 

Large pair of tables occupied by mid/late teen males, all outfitted, one Hilfiger among them. (Not finger—the spelling needed checking, even after ten years in Singapore.) Sleeveless puffers, discreet other labels, clean trainers.

Odd how in their particular presence all the old Serbs down in the South had risen up so strongly.

Mr Jankovic across the street, who Bab needed to call upon to slaughter our chook when she herself couldn’t do it. Stevo Savanovic the unprincipled skirt-chaser. Working as a storeman at the Spencer Street Station cafeteria, Mr Djordjevic had swung the first job at the illegal age of fourteen. 

Mitrovic, Jovetic, Djurovic—there was no need to differentiate the Montenegrins & Herzegovinians in particular. Golic and Djakic, both like Mr Jankovic and Stevo Savanovic, marrying Germans after their internments.

Chika Djakic’s middle son Stevo had been the schoolboy friend of big John Dickinson, from their time at Wembley Primary. Daki he had been called then, a card like his father. One afternoon visiting with Bab Mr Djakic’s playfulness created some alarm when he called his wife in the kitchen for a knife, in order to cut off his young guest’s willy. Later at Easter the father provided the son a painted wooden egg, which won all the egg knocking contests in the grounds of Our Virgin in Carlton,  before St. George was built in St. Albans.

Not ever met, Mr Jovanovic in St. Albans with another German wife, had a younger son who married lovely Lizzy Sutherland. Often his ghost too came back with those others. The suburban sprawl of the city had ensured separation, even though Mr Jovanovic was later discovered to have contributed to the building of St. George, like all our group on the other side of town. Following Dostoyevsky a couple generations earlier, during his incarceration this Mr J.—there was another Jovanovic a couple streets away who had married a Macedonian—was taken out to the execution yard, blindfolded and shot with blanks. Spreading the terror among the populace must have been judged more useful for the powers than mere reports of deaths.

The slow trip North from Athens had unexpectedly turned up a concentration camp in Nis. After all the readings, photographs and documentaries over the many years, the simple physical remnant could not shock very much. Old stone & brick buildings from the earlier Royalist barracks of King Aleksander had been repurposed by the Nazis. The barbed wire that had been added to the top of the perimeter wall had since been taken down; in some of the cells it had been left stretched over the concrete floors. Within the narrow space the men would eventually tire and need to get off their feet; few surviving long, the guide in her booth suggested. The small hole in the roof of the cell had not been provided for the prisoner, but the observation of the guards. Socrates’ cell in the hill below the Acropolis was similar.

Before the wall at the rear of the grounds prisoners and rebels had been executed. A large outbreak of over a hundred inmates in 1942 had been the first such of the war in Europe. Numbers of these subsequently captured had been shot.

            Therefore that adamantine solidity of the survivors, in Melbourne and elsewhere. Men like statuesque bronzes returning from the factories, the rail lines and roadworks. Labourers, painters, gardeners, cleaners. Those a little luckier with trades earned better as mechanics, carpenters and shoemakers. Even work days and on their bicycles jackets, coats and shoes likely polished by their wives restored some dignity.

The street’s occupants from elsewhere fitted the same profile, the Poles, Istrians, Italians, Croats & Magyars. Two doors down, for years Mr Stein had been mistaken for one of the old settler Australians. (Some years later the daunting Jews in the Acland Street cafes with their numbers on their wrists were discovered.)

After two or three years of law at Moscow University, Maria Popov had walked three months to West Berlin in the wake of the retreating Nazis and advance of the Communists. Judging by the ages of the children, Pavel & Lydia, husband Stefan had been picked up along the way, or again in the labour or DP camps. How the wheel of big Teta M’s finned pink & white Chevy had spun in her hands cornering! A peasant woman like our Bab sitting in the audience at the visiting Moscow Circus, before Cossack dancers, at the opera perchance and Melbourne symphony.

Our Kuma Jasna made the unfortunate choice for one of the second wave, a Herzegovinian handyman who took to the drink. A trifle uncannily, Kuma echoed Hamlet’s point about his father in thinking of the lesser men of the succeeding generation. No doubt father and Uncle Jovan closely resembled her own father back home.

These young lads at the café tables and their older siblings knew the bare details of the disintegration of the former country here; and as for the great wars that was inevitably beyond grasp. Certainly books, much less photographs and film, would offer little and often mislead. Lest we forget, when forgetfulness was unavoidable and an integral part of the eternal cycle.

Hilfiger, Vans, Adidas. The middle class was perfectly understandable; like the poor and beggars, they would always be with us.

Even in the early 50s the Saban handyman on the hill at Zelalici came back up after his odd jobs on the water with tales of furniture in the houses, drapes and bathrooms.

Word of a kucni pas, an indoor house dog back in the homeland, had emerged down in the South in the mid ‘70s. Here in Vracar they were legion and probably fetched back pre-both wars. Boutique handsome examples appeared on all sides, with their poop often properly cleaned after them. For some reason the Samoyed of the Equator (Singapore), had failed to appear in ten days on the streets. Pussy love again for some reason was rare here, nothing like the Tropical example. In Athens below the Acropolis a dedicated group fed strays among the later Roman ruins, which drew many photographers.

Marvellously leafy in good part Vracar, lessening the heat island effect in this quarter the city, Cousin Vlado said. The phases of construction over the many decades gave interesting variety to the physical fabric; the wear of mortar and discolouration added a human index that was again missing in the spruce of Singapore.

The labelling was far less in Vracar. (Encountered in an Indian resto, German Jan with the local girlfriend, settled here four years, had been told more than once that Vracar was not Belgrade.) One recent tee was straight out of the eternally corporate striving, ferocious tiger territory of Singapore. A young gal with high buttocks pounding the footpath by Cuburac in fashionable sportswear, proudly blazed her aspiration: PRESSURE IS A PRIVILEGE.

 

 

 

                   Vračar, Belgrade

 

 

NB. Built on the Vračar Plateau over many decades—with recent Ruski roubles from Putin helping bring it to closer to completion—the enormous Church of St. Sava is meant to echo Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, long since turned into a mosque of course. Craning the neck on each pass after the work in the library adjacent, the initial guess had been 25-30m high. Maybe 35m. Wikipedia gives a peak of SEVENTY-NINE metres. 











 

 

 


Monday, May 5, 2025

Hummin’

 

 

Hipster dude in the Serb form still gettin' acclimatised. Nothing there whatever objectionable: white collared shirt untucked, stubble, piercings & pictures unapparent. Granola was good, tasty, the Greek yoghurt possibly free range moos, sheep & goats; maybe not on a hillock overlooking the waters of the Aegean opp Santorini. No fuss. Yes sir, No sir. You cannot avoid the straw in the latte anywhere in these parts. After Singapore the messy little garden in front was a treat. But the dribble. Wasn't booming exactly; moderate. Golden oldie classic rock baby love need you honey yeah. 3-4-5 with the crunchy gran and fangs in desperate need of attention. Baby love me sweet… Lightest drops en route meant the free table just on the edge of the awning, prints, pots, parley outta harm’s way. For the latte following though, we'll take it at the garden table, ta. When you don't have gusle, I'll mosey off there... The stubbled chin pointed one way. Reflexively pointed the other. Upraised & down. Fixed upon it the eyes escaped.

 

For those of you unacquainted:

https://youtu.be/oqTFNytdGFk?feature=shared

 

Rough transl of the title here without resorting to G —

Don't honey give to another

That which my hand has... smothered

 

 

NB. The older epic heroic cycles ala blind Homer were definitely a mark above.

 

 


Thursday, May 1, 2025

Forest Bathing (Skopje)

 

 

Once entered and ventured within the little thicket in the park opposite the parliament surprised. Toward the low-rise mall on one side numerous trees standing eight or more metres high had been planted close, their thin canopies up high. The simple stone monument by the path with its discontinued fountain had its signage worn away. Numerous peopled benches lined the paths, also worn & weathered. In preparation for the next leg of the trip the nails were pared on one. During the course voices behind had caused a couple of looks round. A girl with her mother it sounded like. There was nothing there. On a third spurt of the same exchange, close behind again, it was up out of the seat and a couple of paces taken... Oh! Oh! White trainers were perched three meters off the ground within the branches of the large leafy tree. Oh! Two prepubescents sitting close opposite each other on a sturdy branch. Beautiful light in the late afternoon sun; mornings were cold in the early Spring here. No smokers were visible; those restless ones  sat along the riverbank. The birds, pigeons, sparrows & others, darted through the tree trunks and searched below, rather than around the benches, as witnessed by only minor spattering. Fancier gardens with flowers & the grass shaved made a different setting and drew another class of person. Here there was no stylish dress and no cameras. Around the mall there stretched long concrete horizontals of shrubs, not as far as one could see any flowers. Even by the fake ruin of columns what was mistaken as a rose bed were again young shrubs. The last thing you noticed, at that hour at least, was the reproduction lamppost of five branches directly in front. One younger chap near the road was on his screen. Half an hour later the young girls continued, perfectly comfortable on their perch. They could not be disturbed with questions.