The climb had reminded of the skaline going up to the village and also the house on the coast above Bijela. There were paved segments where tile had been laid, with some concrete controversially added here and there; but in many places the limestone crust had been cut and shaped, which provided steps that had once carried the ancients whose names were honoured in the present day streets of the city.
One afternoon near hotel Soho, Sofokleous appeared like a visitation. With better lookout thereafter Evripidou, Lykourgou and others unknown and not easily found in the searches.
Early Spring in Athens, 8 degrees shortly after 8 in the morning setting out, in order to avoid the larger crowds that had been mentioned. After the years on the Equator the compression socks from the flight were needed with the sandals; a cracked heel too caused some nuisance.
On the flat up top again the embedded rock everywhere took almost as much notice as the fashioned marble that had been quarried some distance away in the north-west beyond the valley, where the city spread in the light like another marvel of it own kind. On all sides around the famous temple the rock protruded.
A rectangular outcrop of that profile that stood between the valley and the port on the other side was always going to draw the attention of visionaries. The landform itself rearing up toward the clouds, topped by a natural platform, suggested a magnificent pedestal; a temple to a deity of one kind or another, inevitably. In the earlier era a forerunner chaste, honourable virgin who was guardian and saviour, inevitably.
In one of the notes there was the suggestion not long after its erection the giant statue of Athena had needed to be pulled down, because the glinting of her helmet or spear in the sun provided a marker for enemies.
Loosely scattered in a number of places where basins of soil had formed stood little newly sprouted poppies. Almost blood red, modest and only dispersed here and there singly. You came upon them on a patch of ground, then ten minutes later again through cracks in the rock, and finally on the last round within some overgrown weed on a larger plot, perhaps a dozen & half unclustered.
After Singapore’s award-winning curb-side garden beds—planted, watered and pruned by the dark foreign workforce—their Botanical Gardens that had replaced the former lush jungle, the untidy overgrowth in Athens, the weeds and the flimsy wild poppies on the sacred Acropolis surprised.
On the Spring climb to Village Uble with Neki fifteen years before there were many different blooms on the mountain sides, some of which Neki could name. Again, modest and delicate in the natural setting, easily missed, like some of the quiet Greek beauties one passed on the streets of Athens.
There was far less make-up worn by the women of inner Athens and men’s dyeing almost non-existent. Visitors from the Malay world would be instantly struck.
Two days before the planned assault on the heights Han Kang’s Greek Lessons had been passed on a street-cart in the fashionable quarter of Monastraki, a short distance from the more democratic Omonia. In the last couple of months two of HK’s stories had been read in Singapore, one an earlier version of the Booker winning volume, where the domestic tussle with the husband over the woman’s vegetarianism featured. This Greek novel was an unknown. Naturally, a reading immediately suggested itself; a brief inspection showing some of the incidental Greek material gave more than enough impetus.
The earlier readings had shown Han was not exactly up one’s alley, but that was a short sample and how to neglect this now?
The €15 was another obstacle, made more steep because of the down-at-heel Omonia quarter. What was that, AU$27 for a pocket-sized novella? Food was expensive in the inner city and the second hotel on the lower side of Omonia damn pricey too.
Three attempts on the purchase had been made with the chap manning the cart, an upping of offer each time proving unsuccessful.
He was only a worker there, the fellow deflected. Without authority; couldn’t do it. Practiced at the role and giving a little winning smile on the third day.
As expected, the writing was toilsome, strained, highly worked up, overloaded.
Withered bloodstains. A clean hunger. Lanterns shrouded in perfect beauty & serenity.
A great many squiggly lines were soon made in the margins.
Overly soft feminine too, domestic without grit or force. Later work it turned out, though secondary—it happened to the best writers—despite the gushing blurbs & prizes.
Kang’s politics and right-feeling were clearly admirable. The reason for the avoidance of the ceremony in Stockholm was likewise admirable, as well as no doubt fitting for a author who wrote of her chief character in Greek needing to take up as little space as possible for herself in the world.
In the opening 15-20pp her greenery, flowers and blooms irritated, as suchlike colouring always did in novels. Conventional decoration of that kind instantly fell flat.
Bruised petals, voluptuous blooms...Pale green trees undulating… flowers a riot of unbelievably beautiful colours.
The produce of flower farms almost as good as plastic. Likely Han had seen little of flowers standing naturally in their own element, largely hidden and offering unexpected greeting.
Under the order of urban planners elsewhere there would be boxed poppies along the climb to a national monument, curved wrought iron benches & umbrellas with their advertisements. On the natural platform of the contemporary Acropolis if you wanted a seat before the Parthenon it needed to be taken on one of the more shaplier rocks.
As for others, for the Greeks poppies may have served for remembrance. On the Acropolis they had thus far resisted elaboration.
April 2025