The Sunday Times, 29 April 2018
Australian writer of Montenegrin descent en route to a polyglot European port at the head of the Adriatic mid-2011 shipwrecks instead on the SE Asian Equator. 12, 36, 48…80, 90++ months passage out awaited. Scribble all the while. By some process stranger than fiction, a role as an interpreter of Islam develops; Buddhism & even Hinduism. (Long story.)
Monday, April 30, 2018
Oh! To Broaden the Mind (Straits Times)
The Sunday Times, 29 April 2018
Thursday, April 26, 2018
The Parade
At Semesta in the evening for supper the amputee in the yard showed up close as in fact a young lad perhaps still in the first half of his twenties. Looking from the table in the dark and under the shadows of the trees, the chap’s gait in particular had suggested an older, more robust man. With some light catching the face, one wondered whether it could possibly have been another just happening to have lost that same portion of his left limb.
And while we are on gait, gesture and manner, let it be known, those fine fattie girls at Ayam Pedas could never cross the floor in Sing. as they do here. Neither in Melbourne, nor many other locales.
Tuesday, April 24, 2018
Taking Flight (from 2018; revised April24)
How many times this bus ride and still the screen of the window tattooing its images on the retina. 200kms. of sheltered walkway by 2018 so we can walk in comfort near Kambungan. That burnt orange notice was first seen on Jalan Besar on the return from down in Oz adjacent a new condo tower dotted with greenery and trailing vines. From the condos to the MRT and then the office tower you could escape the tropics almost entirely in well-planned Singapura. I plan to do more charity when I retire, especially for these guys: late thirties/early forties left her bicycle aside in order to pick up a cat and lift it up to her face in place of the baby she missed out on for some strange reason in the sheltered bower on the Equator. (DBS Bank near Bedok would help her manage the transition.) Two kilometres further the picture-board promising Grandeur Park Residences titillated sleepy-eyed commuters. In-between at all points along the roadway dark men in hard-hats and fluro toiled under the sun. Hard Rock tees were less numerous at 9AM. (One anticipated the absence of brands on the streets of Jogja, both hi & low form.) Days past Malcolm Turnbull had nagged in the brain after the award bestowed on the republic for its accomplishments in urban design. A spot of urban terrorism now: Once low dose nerve gas had done for his security detail, the miscreant Malcolm would be taken by the ear and dragged along a few kilometres of sheltered walkway, up in the elevators and along the passages to the pigeon holes, where he could sit beneath a fan sipping his teh and cast over the iconic sky-line. Dunk the Duffer’s noggin in the little water feature outside Paragon, with its silver and pink baubles curling overhead; rub his nose over the street art on Orchard. Run the bugger through the school playgrounds and across the sun-blasted fields of the richer ones. Have a good look Mal and report back when you’re done! The award for good works in the colonies to Prince Phillip by Mal’s predecessor was bad, but this not far behind.
Monday, April 23, 2018
How To Tell Hendrikus?
Hendrikus told a little tale of what he termed “selfishness” this afternoon at the old Malioboro library involving his Belgian friend. This woman was a serious Indonesia enthusiast, speaking both proficient Bahasa and also one of the Timor Leste languages, in addition to her two or three European languages and Esperanto. A talented and devoted linguist who had a PhD from Brussels within the field presumably. The woman, similar age to Hendrik in his mid-thirties, loved Indonesia and visited annually, staying ten days at a stretch. As a visitor to the library on Malioboro Hendrik at the counter had made the acquaintance. (Hendrik had been working the last few years digitising Greater Yogyakarta’s newspaper archive, which took him to the new library a few kilometres out of the centre where he met fewer foreigners now.) Over four or five years a good friendship had developed with the Belgian and Hendrik confessed he had fallen in love with her. The woman was soft and sensitive, according to Hend, similar to Indonesian women. For an odd and surprising illustration of this latter Hendrik told of riding on his bike with the woman, always of course an ordeal in a helmet under the tropical sun. When the pair arrived at a particular destination Hendrik had seemingly been charmed by the tears that came to her. This had reminded Hend of his Javanese beauties riding daily in this heat from earliest days? It was rather odd and unexpected to hear. The conclusion of softness and sensitivity granted however. Almost certainly Hendrikus had not acted on his feelings, nor divulged them to the woman concerned; perhaps the Belgian guessed well enough. Hend was married to a pretty local gal, in the main a contented husband. Which didn’t of course mean feeling could not radiate elsewhere in the usual way. With numerous visits to Indonesia, many likely predating the initial meeting with Hendrikus, the Belgian linguist had formed a number of friendships, among which there was a local Indonesian mother-figure. Such relationships were not unfamiliar in other countries and among other cultural groups: far from home, an enthusiast adopts one particular maternal figure whom they have claimed as mother-in-a-foreign-land. Migrants in displaced communities commonly resorted to the practice. (Bab back in Melbourne had been majka to many Serbs, Croats, Macedonians and others.) In Indonesia the practice extended to regular foreign visitors. Hendrik’s example of “selfishness” occurred at this local mother’s house. When Hendrik dropped off the woman, the Belgian, at her Indonesian mother’s house after one of their outings the perfunctory goodbye he received rather stung him. The Belgian had apparently dismounted, offered farewell with the wave of a hand, opened the door to the house and entered without further ado…. One needed to imagine Hendrik looking on from the seat of his motor-cycle at a wave of the hand from behind, as he demonstrated this afternoon; the door of the substitute mother’s opened, closed and banged a little perhaps. Nothing of real moment. Discourteous and casual, however, for one accustomed to better graces. When the Belgian linguist had this “selfishness” pointed out to her she had laughed, whether from embarrassment or some other reason was unclear. As a Catholic Hendrik was concerned with the resurgence of radical Islam and terrorism. There was some Belanda, Dutch ancestry in the family a few generations back, including an evangelical grandfather who had conducted lay missions in Lampung, South Sumatra, where family remnants remained. Sometimes Hendrik thought a re-location to a Western country might be a good thing. It was difficult to maintain faith in meaningful change for the better in Indonesia; the country had gone backwards in recent years, according to Hendrik, the economy stagnating and inflation particularly a serious problem. (By contrast, for all the financial graft in Malaysian politics the country continued to surge forward.) Airfares were expensive to Holland, and immigration more difficult since this turnaround after the refugees and the rest.
Friday, April 20, 2018
Old Virgins and Other Hardship
On the street in every quarter the young teen mums and dads that bore out the newspaper story of the last few days: in Indonesia the rate of teen marriage continued to hover around 25%. Today an article focused on a valley out behind Merapi where the folk explained the long-standing practice. On the one hand it was better to formalize a union and avoid illicit relations; on the other the custom had always been of mid-teen marriage for girls and later for boys. It was difficult rebuffing a marriage proposal too without giving offence and creating serious trouble into the future. In these agrarian communities old virgins of nineteen had always been a source of family shame. (In old Montenegro none were more pitiable than the stare cure, old maids.)
The fifteen and sixteen year old mothers on the street in this community might make a better fist of it where grandparents and often great-grand could be called upon for expertise and aid. The urban village too raised the child here.
At the early opener Jamal Edan Angkringan near Pak Antun, which didn’t open until the evening, the teh jahe, ginger tea for some reason lacked flavour. It was real ginger and generous slices in the glass; perhaps gone stale and soft. A good perch even so, tables provided and the passing parade touching distance.
No doubt longer term travelers, or people who settle properly in second and third world countries, become habituated to the hardship and struggle evident all round them, hardly distinguishing one kind from another. It could not be otherwise; cosseted newcomers only were shocked by the sights. One recalled lovely young middle-class Lizzie, a teaching colleague many years ago in Melbourne, reporting her trip to India with her boyfriend. The pair had landed in Bombay, as the city was still known then, and the bus ride from the airport proved more than enough for Lizzie. In her hotel room she unable to stop crying and could not emerge for a number of days.
The work-crew laying the new pavement down the bottom end of Malioboro near Hamza Batik were greeted here and there along the path. Toughened young lads in short pants, ragged tees and flip-flops benefitting from good cloud cover and as important, good camaraderie. Safety shoes, hard hats and gloves — kosong. There were none. In this setting in their native land, however, there was none of the heavy woefulness attached to the foreign crews in Singapore under the supervision of the local Chinese foremen and engineers.
Good humour evident. Buoyant spirits. The old becak drivers and passersby chatted with their fellows. Without the foreign taskmaster an entirely different cast to the scene.
Not much hi-tech here. A bulldozer had been on hand the day before. On this particular day it might have been called elsewhere and the cartage of the screenings for the concrete mix needed to be done by hand.
This was not the first time such a tool had been seen in Indonesia. Seeing it again that afternoon the shock was the same. This traveler was still raw for such scenes.
By the driveway beyond Hamza a lad was bent double at his toil. This young chap was not working a trowel or boxing in the path. This man was shoveling screenings — bent double because the shovel was only a shovel loosely understood.
A shovel minus a handle here. Instead of a handle there had been a couple of holes drilled either side of the steel head and a wire looped through to make a handle of sorts; something like the handle of a housewife’s shopping basket. (Gloves would have been useful here.)
Lads laughed, stretched out their arms, tilted back their heads. What was to do?
In through the entrance at Hamza was another world where one was ushered by costumed elderly, even ancient folk who stood either side bowing their heads and hands clasped prayerfully. Fridays and weekends a little gamelan ensemble played opposite the register. The workers on the street could not afford Beringharjo batik, much less Hamza.
In the foreign language one had bumbled Mas a number of times with the thanks for service. Pal or buddy. Then on the afternoon of the work-crew downstairs an impromptu correction only made matters worse.
Ibu was mother strictly. In fact nothing but mother. Less than appropriate.
Would Mbak be best for this lady? the common for young, unmarried girls beyond their teens.
Six years on still plenty of learning remaining.
Wednesday, April 18, 2018
Moonshine (update April24)
NB. 1 The camp kitchen @ Pak Muh, with the ablution stalls at the end of the passage and the motor-cycle yard adjacent. (The little mussolah where the girls and women perform their prayers is just around the corner.)
NB. 2. The eating area.
Thursday, April 12, 2018
Holding On
An optical illusion likely, but this new cycle attendant out front at Semesta appears to swing his amputated arm more than the other. The thought was looseness from the lack of weight at the end—the mangling here had occurred in the hand and wrist. Something to be grateful for the fact it was the left, a small mercy. Could he still manage a bike in motion on the roads? That loss would also be a severe limitation for a man here—wheeling the cafe patrons’ bikes for parking as much as he could manage. In stride in soldierly gait the man seemed to have little control, the short arm flopping about like a fish on the end of a line. Nerve ends and tendons shot and possibly he was still becoming accustomed to his condition.
Wednesday, April 11, 2018
The Guard-House & The Prince
The rich luv, just luv to death the secure. Gotta keep em safe; and lottsa not so well-off around the place don’t forget. Stalking ‘em it sometimes feels like when they’re walking to the car door, to the resto and the office. Sends a chill.... Well, that’s overdoin it in these parts, but you know what I mean. Can’t get enough secure. They’ve got state-of-the-art fighter jets, missiles and the like here, if any of the neighbours wanna get narky. But the worry is the dark gardens round the towers, out beside the pool late night and the carparks. What about deliveries? Who really knows what’s lurking in those trucks and vans that come in by the gate? It wouldn’t take much to hurl a rudimentary petrol bomb up against their windows, grab one of the children coming home from school outta the hands of the maids. CCTV, floodlights, gates and barriers need backup from the human element; another layer if nothing else. Therefore Yana @ $70 per 12 hour shift. (Boss gotta pay another $10 levy because he’s a foreigner, never stops reminding him.) What did he say, three through the day and two nights? Beaut gig that particular one, according to Yana, because it allowed plenty of kip on the guardhouse floor under the fan. Enviable slot. The people upstairs don’t know that of course, they think the uniformed Sec. boys are watching out for them every tick of the clock, patrolling the grounds, checking rubbish bins for suspicious parcels. No joke, the really conscientious supers want to know who threw what into the garbage cans