Australian writer of Montenegrin descent en route to a polyglot European port at the head of the Adriatic mid-2011 shipwrecks instead on the SE Asian Equator. 12, 36, 48…80, 90++ months passage out awaited. Scribble all the while. By some process stranger than fiction, a role as an interpreter of Islam develops; Buddhism & even Hinduism. (Long story.)
Sunday, December 25, 2016
Highest Stealth
Wednesday, December 21, 2016
On the Corner
Goddess (Nilla)
Monday, December 19, 2016
VD Klinik Deja Vu
Saturday, December 17, 2016
Snow-Drift (Equatorial)
Foot-slog of the second mall at City Square after lunch. Trousers, Lee jeans, various casual wear. One or two roomy possibilities found in the midst of all the tight skinny-legged whatnot. Sore with the slow recovery from this darn tinea and then the milling shoppers. Such numbers of extended Chinese families gliding through the aisles, strings of 7 - 8 like fish in a pond. Men emerging from change rooms in their white polos slashed with red and royal blue crests pulling at collars and needing the advice of mothers and wives. Cripes!... School hols. and Chrissy creeping on snow-drift quiet. Numerous fagged out shags on rocks waiting on couches. In one of the up-market stores—but then they were all up-market above the dirty street and canal—a plush apple-red Chesterfield chair held a shrunken Asian princess bargain hunter reminiscent of the skit in the Two Ronnies when little Corbert delivered one of his set routines. Polished tiles, bright colours, soaps, deodorants & perfumes. The species perfectly adapted to the environment, cruising like ice-skaters, even older heads who might have known better. Many were the recent generation of newly minted Singaporean of course crossed over for the plummeting ringgit. Poor Bangla lad coming down an escalator held his mop over the fixed stainless panel against the perspex like he was taught by the supervisor: tight, firm and applying pressure top of handle. The lad’s compatriots at the exits were dressed in fatigues almost and crowned with reddy-orange berets in some kind of compromise between security and couture. All of which almost entirely without looking, head down-nose clean, barely a single instance of eye contact. Flooding images overpowering regardless. In Malaysia mind, where on the streets of the provinces at least a social whirl of acknowledgements, greetings, abrupt enquiries after your nativity, smiles for miles and miles. The micro-climate of the mall on a Monday afternoon almost a fortnight to Christmas, sharia law about to be promulgated in one or two states to the north, flooding in various regions, the political class braving a torrent of accusation, mass weddings (one involving a fifteen year old and later in the week another national suicide bomber in Syria—thirty-eight thus far). Earlier in the morning a substantial procession of foreign workers almost to a man waving make-shift green flags down the middle of Trus toward Masjid India. Maulid, the Prophet's birthday, which in these parts really does seem to occur at least two or three times a year. And why had the author subjected himself to the trial, pray tell? Slogging through the mall?... Well, it does not befit one of the White race with Arts bureaucrats to engage shortly and then Immigration officials, to go about in what the old Australians would term "the arse hanging outta his pants." A dirty great tear in the seat of the outdoor clobber not a year old, purchased in the happy isle to the South. (Not the first shoddy product bought from Campers beside the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul on Queen Street.)
Thursday, December 15, 2016
Flocking
Late afternoon light over the rail-line that sits in a little cavern surrounded by ten, twenty and thirty storey buildings. Buses with their horns queueing for the terminal beyond. The last forty-eight hours confined to the room and the window for outlook, when suddenly the larger confinement struck with some sharpness. Three times a large flock of dark birds had wheeled over in formation from the south, the water-side; two passes in-close and the third a hundred and more metres high. Dotted cloud swarms with undulating narrow wings diving and surging over this massed concrete. How long it had been! In the last week the realization had come that there were no seagulls on the shores of the equator. Were these then the pigeons that the hole-in-the-wall Indian store-keepers fed around the corner from Muthu? Middle-class children in Singapore possibly come to witness such events on holidays in foreign parts. There were certainly pigeons in the southern republic, they were poisoned regularly by the Enviro. men. Too large for starlings these here.
Tuesday, December 13, 2016
Bob and a Sweet Tamil Song
Monday, December 12, 2016
A Great Teacher
Gone 7pm. Unavoidable little 20 minute snooze a couple of hours ago after writing and reading.
— Bome platit cu ja to!...
Her voice returning with the characteristic phrase. By the Lord I'll be paying for that.
A wave of her undemonstrative, deep love radiating from it.
Nearly ten years after her death Bab's legendary holding herself to account suggested her great capacities and dimensions.
A snooze in the middle of the day would certainly be paid for in the night. Sometimes a night could be longer than a gladna godina, a year of famine.
There had never been such an expression as Volim te, I love you.
It had been strange on the first visit to Boka hearing all the love songs on the radios and cassette players in the houses of the younger generation.
Volim te duso draga, I love you my soul.... Jedina moja, My one and only….
Once Bab had complained rather startlingly, only once, — Nikad me i njesi voleo. You never did love me.
Of course in the last years if not before, if ever there was any doubt, the falsity of that charge was made abundantly clear to her.
All thanks here to our dear neighbour Dragica too. Without Drage's example one might never have kissed mother’s hands, the snowy top of her head, perhaps not even her cheeks. Drage was the great teacher. In childhood we had an old spinster neighbour we called Teta zlato moje, behind her back. Auntie my gold—in the sense of fortune. The old widow had adult children of her own, but when a child came within her orbit they were blessed with her fine, expressive loving and given one of her cookies. That dear lady’s way was not our own. At home in the last years we secretly mock-cherished Dragica's magnificent tenderness too.
Along with dozens of other emigrants, mostly from our own community, Bab had minded Drage's two young children, Nada and Sasha. Drage might have been the first of the newer immigrants to call Bab “mother”. The strange occasion registered of course most particularly. Most of the others respectfully called Bab Tete, Auntie, the standard.
Pitying Dragica in her financial struggles, Bab would wrap her child-minding fees in little Sasha's nappies for Dragica to later discover at home.
Drage from a village in Southern Serbia in the vicinity of Vranje, where they taught her beautiful ways of affection. (Like Babi too, Drage was a terrible scold—a lazy-bones husband, children careless with school-work, relatives slipping in proper conduct all fell victim. But that for another episode.)
Sunday, December 11, 2016
Obs.
The Paki from behind his pillar furtively observing the meal being consumed. Cool nights his clay oven offers some welcome warmth—even here in the tropics, spitting distance from the equator, believe it or not. (Damp mid December, grey skies like over the cricket fields in England.) White guy, journalist or writer something or other taking bread from his hands; taking his finely diced shallots into his mouth with his fingers. Never tiring of the fare, invariably the same order night after night. There was a McDonalds in the near mall and KFC the one over the canal, queues at both, weekends in particular. Yet this chap preferred the bread he had shaped from his dough, raw onion and two plain sambal. Staying at one of the hotels nearby not short of a shekel; knew some Hindi. Early on picked him as a Paki and took his plate and glass out back before paying. Strange bird. (Difficult to counteract the drones of course for all
Johor Bahru, Malaysia Dec2016
Friday, December 9, 2016
Athlete’s Foot
Tuesday, December 6, 2016
Winning the Lottery
Sunday, December 4, 2016
Ibrahim and Ismail - published by Antigonish Review
Fifty or sixty sheep waiting within the muddy pen that had been improvised against the front fence of the Madrassa. They had arrived late last week, the Qantas flights resumed just in time. The sheep had come from Adelaide; the cheaper goats Perth. Soon after nine an expectant crowd had gathered. Near the side fence a plastic bucket of knives; plastic sheeting spread on the opposite side. The arrangement was clear. Hoses, large plastic bags and boxes, more knives on tables. Above what looked like a pit near the bucket a couple of rails had been laid—in fact it was a drain. The blood would not be collected; that was another kind of practice in northern climates. Two thirds of the meat was usually reserved for the poor, of whom as yet there was no sign. The slaughter was due to begin after the second prayer.
The slaughtermen were older hands, unremarkable in the common dress. From an almost vertical position the long blade came down, a prompt and what seemed neat slit following the plunge. Almost like a hot knife in butter: the blade was very sharp. After a number of animals had been done a chap with a whetstone re-sharpened. Behind, the twitching of the animal's tail lagged a little after the knife. It was only almost an hour later and a score of beasts that the twitching on the pallets before the butchers was noticed. This was a shock. It was possible the second slaughterman was responsible for that; somehow he seemed less accomplished.
The blood from the knife was wiped on the sheep each time, one side of the blade carefully after the other. It was an integral part of the proceeding. Each time the slaughterman did the same, the second man like the one before him. The remaining blood was washed from the blade by cupping water from another bucket; between times the rails were hosed. The ground throughout the forecourt of the Madrassa was muddy from the rain of past days. Adding further water would only have made the job more difficult.
A group of men beside the drain raised prayers as the knife came down on each animal, singing a short, plaintive couple of verses that included the acknowledgement of God's greatness.
— Allahu Akbar. Allahu Akbar.
The voices were thin and minor key the same as the rest of the scene from one end of the forecourt to the other. It was very much a Brueghel canvas. In front of the chorus as if supervising a young woman stood with a sheet of paper. She had not been present from the beginning; the choir itself might not have been present initially. Various young men helped inside the pen and young boys of ten given a turn too, their laughter and high spirits allowed. After a number of animals had been skinned on the other side a chap produced an electric saw and proceeded to dismember with that. Three or four animals were hung at a time. On a table near the fence on the side of the butchering a man cleaned animal heads. Everyone knew their task without any kind of order or system apparent. This was a practiced communal event far from industrial slaughter.
After something like a score of animals had been done, the first slaughterman was relieved. The second around the same age, somewhere in his early sixties, wore a black songkok. Once or twice his blade came down a second time after what must have been an imperfect cut of the jugular. At one point there was a clear spout of blood that shot well outside the drain. Possibly the impression of lesser surety was mistaken.
The relieving of duty was unexpected. Was it the bending that had tired the first slaughterman so quickly? His role was confined to the knife only. The rails were sometimes hosed by him, sometimes by a bystander. So efficiently had the man worked the assumption had been that he might do the entire pen. When he was relieved more than half the animals remained. Somehow the second slaughterman broke the earlier smooth rhythm.
In the contemporary Christian tradition it is the lamb of the manger that is remembered, if at all. For Jesus the shepherd there is the lamb and the flock—standing for the gentle meekness that has erased the radicalism of the prophet (as Christ is acknowledged in Islam). Abraham and Isaac have been long forgotten in the contemporary Western consciousness. In pockets of the U.S. it might be different.
A significant number of applicants here were disappointed in not winning a place in the Saudi quota for the hajj. Some who cannot attend pay for an animal to be slaughtered in Mecca on their behalf. Prices of livestock have risen this year because of weather factors. The Straits Times reported $443 per head of Australian sheep and $395 goat — transport inclusive.
Saturday, December 3, 2016
On the Crawl
Wednesday, November 30, 2016
Pillows & Blankets
.... Spoke too soon too. After breakfast and the newspaper a poor blighted old girl missing her two front teeth came jigging along the pavement to the song blaring from the store up from Muthu. A long white fabric that might have served overnight as a blanket she had draped over her poor stricken head. The dress of chocolate embroidered with gold trim recalled better days. In mismatched flip-flops standing in front of the Restoran mouthing into the street, rocking and swaying. Did she actually have the coin to pay for the sachet of milk at Muthu, or was it provided by the lads?
Ten minutes later Yick's security guard jumping up to move the witches-hats for the late arriving Merc at Warna altars raised the stakes further still. In forty-five days of breakfasts there opposite that ponce in his chariot has not alighted and dirtied his own fingers even once.
Monday, November 28, 2016
The Kambodja
Tuesday, November 22, 2016
Consumption
Almost six weeks in Johor Bahru the count of soaps surprises: 2 small cakes of camphor bought from the store on Jalan Wong Ah Fook opposite the canal (RM1.50); one turmeric & agar from an Indian store on Jl. Trus (RM5.19) and thus far two small lozenges of coffee from the night-market. (One initial purchase of the latter and three subsequently discounted — RM7 & 15.) The heat in the bathroom across the day progressively softening and melting possibly; the little bugs feasting on the sugar content the other possibility. Wonderfully fragrant all; the first used for hand and clothes-washing and shaving. One large tube of Dentobac NEEM toothpaste recommended for tartar control almost finished, with another waiting on the high ledge of the bathroom. Two and one half Listerine neon-blue tartar control 250ml flasks; perhaps 7 - 8 cold-pressed pomegranate vials from the night-market (RM15 two nights' usage); and four 120gm Yemeni honey jars (morning and nightly teaspoons). (The Singaporean regime of apple cider vinegar has been omitted for want of the product—only found now at a medical supplies on Trus opposite the temple.) Forty either pongal or uppuma breakfasts at Muthu, excepting unavailability during Deepavali and the once or twice run-out after late arrival. Lunches have been mostly taken at Razali's stall at the teahouse opposite the bakery where a range of fish and 2 - 3 veg. RM7 – 9. Fruit to top off ciku & papaya usually. Supper alternates a few places in order to limit the nan in-take — Reaz chiefly and then the nameless mamak place on Meldrum - Siu Nam corner where the hairy-armed Lohorean does his thinner with mint dip side. The two 50ml Dettol should be added and perhaps half the part-spilt 320ml treating a painfully inflamed blister of some kind on the sole of the foot that has developed into what is perhaps a boil on the third toe. A fortnight now with antiseptic cream (25gm) recalls tales of Babi's father crudely operating on his daughter's heels and Uncle George's late-onset gout. Lattes every second day at Maco mostly beside the bakery RM9.90 and perhaps 3 - 4 small-pack banana cakes bought from the latter largely in an attempt to gift the Indon crew at the teahouse, where finally the sleepy-head Sumatran is accepting both fruit & cake (RM5.80). The New Straits Times (RM1.50) usually from the trannie at the convenience store a few doors from the hotel, as it is difficult to find at the Indian vendors; otherwise the Star. Forty days reading and scanning one continues to marvel at the half-baked propaganda hashed page after page shamelessly trying one angle after another. Blunt bludgeoning that demonstrates how far the outer rings of hangers-on extend in kleptocracies. Perhaps three gel pens, which emptied of ink and left at eatery tables cause Indian lads to run after the writer. (RM3.20 the better class.) With the original Mark I ipad barely functioning and battery running down in little over three hours, the purchase of an Energizer portable charger from the Apple store at Machines, City Square (RM299). Malfunctioning within a week in fact and only today returned from KL. Still awaiting a graphic artist/designer to recast the MS of Southernmost Point: Jalan-Jalan Johor Bahru. A map is to be added to the end pages, captioned photographs gathered and finally a Cast of Characters in order to fit a format the ThinkCity people intend to use for further writings about this town. (This after meticulous page lay-out with Steve Black the photographer.)
NB. At time of writing $AUS1 : RM3.23
Saturday, November 19, 2016
Three Recent Publications: Canada & India
Digital copies are available at Kobobooks.com — $US8 for anyone interested; hard copy mail-out otherwise. (After a decent interval I will post it here on the blog.)
In late September an Indian journal where my work has appeared previously published another piece, titled “Dessert (Payasam)” — a short masquerading as a food item and placed on the site in the Non-fiction & also Travel files. The Literary Yard is a N. Delhi-based free online journal
One more too appeared in August: titled “Southernmost Point”, published by Contemporary Literary Review India, Vol. 3 No. 3, downloadable pdf file available online
Tuesday, November 15, 2016
No Offence Taken
An old Montenegrin would have deadpanned: — Jesam li te ja sto pitao? Did I ask anything of you?...
Caught by surprise of course. An innocent, hapless victim of one knew not what. They didn’t do better on the stage; old-style vaudeville perhaps.
One had to laugh. Twice it may have been and after an attempted stifling; which meant with the road noise the lass was unlikely to have heard.
— My dear, do you suppose that is of any interest for myself? Englishman faking it….
An odd kind of stud in this case too one must say, certainly to have raised such evident enthusiasm. In passing there had been a glimpse of an odd young chap loitering on the inner footpath. Almost certainly the woman meant the dork in the shorts, sandals and non-descript tee who looked a mite touched.
Did these chromosomally conflicted ladies truly do favours for well-hung chappies, as some of the folklore suggested? The testosterone run wildly in that direction?
Now, by making the remark, conveying her appreciation and relish, was the gal here attempting to insinuate herself in fact? self-promoting? That is, in addressing a white guy the lady hinting her anticipation of a certain likely parity and giving to understand there was delight ready to flow from that?
Why in the heck otherwise would the woman offer such information? Purely a case of a lady’s enthusiasm bubbling over, the exclamation just happening fortuitously to be directed at your person passing at that juncture?
Not the prettiest on the street this lass, tall, stout and round-shouldered; she was forced to other strategies. Some were quite beautiful and naturally so: there would be no surgeries or expensive enhancement at this street-level in such a town. Thais or Filipino/as almost certainly. (The matter of trafficking only occurred later.)
One could only thank the girls, smile and lightly break the hold on the arm. After a number of weeks now they were hardly putting out at all for the panama. The bright-eyed girl that night was new.
Saturday, November 12, 2016
Baby Among the Reeds
The penultimate paragraph: “An average of 100 babies are dumped every year in Malaysia and more than 50% do not survive.”
And the last paragraph: “OrphanCare runs baby hatches in Petaling Jaya, Johor Bahru and Sungai Petani…”
….Facility adopted from where?... They didn’t dream this up here that was for sure.
Friday, November 11, 2016
Night-shift Martyr
Tuesday, November 8, 2016
Double-Barrelled
Remarkable insistent flashing. Mesmerising to watch. The chap at the cashier’s desk at Muthu turkey head extended, and the eyes above all. As if on stalks. Beaming, bulging, near popping from their sockets. The greatest strain was concentrated in those orbs. Nothing whatever about the cashier to explain it, good, regular guy possessed of a brilliant smile tickled. But this chap was seeking, enquiring, unable to fathom something that was before him. Not surprisingly the other avoided his gaze. What too was remarkable here almost as much as the look itself was the reflection of Yanasagaran. This man was darker, colour and even more features recalling Rawat’s revelation of the African slave trade that was introduced into that unexpected corner of the sub-continent. Old Hollywood films, comedies and serials, where the servant or cow-hand entered, contained precisely this visage, the cameras searching it out for the audience laughs. Yana when he was hearing the unexpected, when challenged or uncertain, would flex his facial muscles and cast into precisely that form and aspect. Striking and most unusual to have it repeated here in Yana’s home town. Was it Africa and Southern India too in confrontation with the gun barrel and its administrators? What was it?
Monday, November 7, 2016
Some Dirt
Three thousand ringitt a month was made from the fruit-stall, massage operation and some other venture that the man did not specify, some minor kind of enterprise. One thousand dollars. Hardly a pile, but in Malaysia not too bad either. The Fruit-man ran a car, owned his own house some way out of town. Originally he had hailed from a town about an hour out of old JB. The fact had emerged during a conversation with a younger Indian who had sat at the adjoining table around on the side where the Fruit-man set-up shop. Since the Fruiterer had moved he rarely went back. Some of his tiredness peeled away listening to the Tamil speak of his former home.
Fruit-man had two sons, one working ready, as they said in the local patois, as an engineer down in Singapore. The younger was currently in Prague on an exchange program in his final year of engineering himself. Once that lad was earning there would be an easing of pressure. The exchange was funded by the Singaporean university the boy attended where a scholarship had been won. Nevertheless there were of course additional expenses. Winter in Prague presented an ordeal for a boy from the tropics. In January it would be all over and hopefully a job in Singapore or elsewhere.
— You younger than me, Fruit-man guessed, risen again from his lethargy.
Fruit-man's sharp eyed look suggested understanding his gambit might just as likely go the other way too. It seemed he did want to know, was measuring himself perhaps.
Told he should call his friend abang, older brother, the Fruiterer responded with thumb and forefinger.
Weekends you could count on a fair trade and good takings, about double other days. Weekends and public holidays.
— Singapore holidays best.
True enough, Fruit-man had to agree.
The old charcoal-fueled bakery over the road drew large groups of Singaporeans. With prices three and even four times cheaper in JB, many crossed the two hundred metre Causeway to take advantage. In recent days the Malaysian government had placed a fee on vehicles crossing onto their territory through Johor Bahru and within a day or too the Singaporeans had replied with the same on their side. For some while now there had been a difficult law to enforce stipulating drivers exiting Singapore could not have less than three-quarts of a tank of fuel. The border hopping for that common lurk was destabilizing Singaporean retailers.
Last week a call from the dark had found old Raja Leong, the Sale King in one of the massage chairs on Jalan Meldrum. Then the other day Raja’s John! from a bench in front of a barber's behind Muthu.
Slow days the Fruit-man sought opportunity for chat. With limited English there was little scope. Fruit-man was not a real talker either. How he could turn some more ringitt was his sole focus; it was doubtful he talked anything else with his pals.
— Not married huh? Single?... Your wage how much?... Go America, England, very good?...
One needed to humour the man best one could. He forgot everything he had been told in any case; the Abang line had been used at his last enquiry on age. Perhaps he had not forgotten and was foxing, distrusting what he had been formerly told.
Today however we would venture some little part further nevertheless, tired as was the Fruit-man. Stuck with the fellow milk him some or prick just for the heck of it.
The arrangement at the teahouse was not altogether clear. The lady operator sub-let to Razali for his food-stall. (In fact head-hunted Razali to bring his food business there.) Sub-let to the Fruit-man and to a Chinese woman who ran another food option, a mee alternative. (Razali offered traditional Malay, cooked by his wife at home and transported.)
Fruit-man was charged RM300 per month to set up his pre-packed ice-box of cut fruit around beneath the frangipani in the side street opposite the charcoal-fired bakery that had become a great favourite: watermelon, papaya, pineapple, chiku, a local pear and apple variety.
Most of the serving girls of Razali's and the Mee lady were Indonesian. There was one Chinese. The teahouse lady had a few Indonesians and also four male waiting on tables, fetching supplies and carting. Two young lads, one of whom was the Teahouse lady's youngest son; the second a pal of the boy, perhaps a cousin. Minimal English both; neither had progressed far in their schooling and almost not at all in the English stream.
One other older man just an employee and the last who looked some little part more. This latter was the odd man out, difficult to place.
There was nothing in it of course, mere idle curiosity. However today Fruit-man was to be asked whether this chap might be the husband of Teahouse Madame.
Affirmative nod elicited; lizard-lazy eyes.
Husband Number Three in case you didn't know, Fruit-man added, nodding again with less threat of nodding off.
Not so common this and worth remarking.
One heard of course of men with two, three and four wives in this region; simultaneously of course. Divorces were not altogether uncommon, but one usually heard of men in the record. A woman who had had three husbands—the Teahouse lady was a first there, in this particular perhaps not extensive acquaintance.
And three—Fruit-man held up pinkie, ring and middle finger, unfurled in that order, all long-nailed—three years the lady's junior to boot.
Wah! Husband No. 3 was three years younger than his twice previously divorced wife? (Almost certainly we were not talking widowhood.)
Heavy lids and jowls added years to Fruit-man's visage. Clearly into his sixties a casual observer would guess.
Other chap concerned here with previously twice married bride and three years his senior had been difficult to pick for rank. In the years previously the assumption had been that he was another employee, perhaps within the family circle and not hireling.
Five years ago in fact when the Teahouse was first discovered the Teahouse lady, clearly the owner and moving spirit, had been asked whether she had inherited the business from her family perhaps. The old building had been theirs?
No. Her in-laws, she had said. And Fruit-man gave the same information unbidden today.
Hubbie No. 3 hopped to the tune played by his senior and wife. On his own resources the man could never have carried out such an operation. Never in a day. This was perfectly evident to all and sundry, the Fruit-man and everybody else. Had the chap somehow attempted to carry the venture here on his inherited plot Fruit-man would not be docked RM300 per month.
— Veeeery stingy, Fruit-man charged.
That was plain to see and no doubt Fruit-man suffered for it.
Three hundred a month for nothing really. The fruit was an addition for the patrons, a further draw for the teas.
Iron discipline over the work-force, helmet hair-cut, jowls and marching gait. The wounds of the past worn by the Teahouse lady were all too visible. How long buried was carefree ease and generous spirit? How the younger self had paid for it. It was exceedingly difficult to reassemble something of the former life.