Australian writer of Montenegrin descent en route to a polyglot European port at the head of the Adriatic mid-2011 shipwrecks instead on the SE Asian Equator. 12, 36, 48…80, 90++ months passage out awaited. Scribble all the while. By some process stranger than fiction, a role as an interpreter of Islam develops; Buddhism & even Hinduism. (Long story.)
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
New Moon
In Indonesia religious authorities delayed the end of the Ramadan fast—putting back Idul-Fitr by twenty-four hours—because the moon was thought to lie too low in the sky on the thirtieth. The decision only made on the Monday, the twenty-ninth, when thousands upon thousands of people had already returned to their home towns for the great celebration. Much food of course wasted by the switch. Instant noodles we'll be feasting on, one frustrated house-wife complained in the newspaper.
A great deal of trouble and hardship. On the other hand, how utterly marvelous this restitution of the old cheesy moon to a place of primacy over the pitiless mechanical clock. The old lamp upstairs that guided all those who came before us. Late last night it had still not appeared in these Singaporean skies. Instead this morning in a late dream it arrived at about forty-five degrees, shining in a brilliant great orb behind fast moving clouds. In a revelatory moment before it disappeared, fantastic jewel shapes and colours were visible embedded within , gleaming and dazzling. A jewels of nature it seemed, a large spotted beetle carapace one side, and on the other hallucinogenically vibrant flower petals. More than enough to make up for spoilt food if the Indonesians could have been so lucky.
Through the window of the hotel at Joo Chiat the bulk and lines of the five storey car-park that filled the frame reminded of the wonderful Korean photographer Hyang Seo. Cream coloured, with a couple of small slots of pink and green on a pillar. Some piping was hidden by the paint; high up in a corner rusty bars drain the sky. The horizontals and verticals making an unexpected unity, a strange ideogram of some kind almost beautiful.
This place will be missed. With the ninety day visa up mid week departure planned for Tuesday, a bus to Malacca. The intention had been to stop at Johor Bahru first on the other side of the Causeway dividing the two countries—fifty years ago a single nation.
This afternoon Kay was the last in a line of people cautioning against Malaysia. Singaporeans generally consider it risky, women particularly. Gangs mentioned: Malaysian tough-guys instantly recognise a Singaporean visitor. How much easier a "white-face"? Kay asked.
Nevertheless. A Muslim country across the narrow water-way—have to see that.
Malacca first, then onto KL. JB skipped; it is worse than KL for crime, Kay declared.
Monday, August 29, 2011
Idul-Fitr
One more sleep for the fasters tonight before they can celebrate their accomplishment in the morning. A big day tomorrow, but basically private. As for the election on Saturday, a public holiday tomorrow. The Malay quarter here in Joo Chiat will be very quiet, all the shops and eateries closed. At day break in the morning the practice is to visit one's neighbours first of all to offer congratulation and best wishes, hopes for peace and well-being. A feast within the home following. All who can manage have returned to their families for the last two weeks of Ramadan especially, tommorow's Idul-Fitr being the culmination. An invitation to a kind of picnic in a public garden in the west of Singapore has been kindly extended by a friend here, an Indonesian gal who will meet with other ex-pats who have been unable to return home. Everyone will bring food of some sort which they will take under the shade of the trees in the park. Tempting. But perhaps best to avoid gate-crashing the girls. Marko and Phil have taken the ferry this afternoon to Batam, thinking it will be vacant and unpromising around this quarter. The thought has just occurred that Batam will be even quieter.
All the stalls around here will be packing up overnight. Good bargains to be had on this last night. Circling back home late afternoon some preliminary packing could be seen already. That together with big reductions advertised on the improvised cardboard on the racks. The two lads selling the carpets—dozens of carpet outlets under the tarpaulins—at the Tanjong Katong opposite Lion City Plaza offered two minute portraits during the down-time. For a couple of bucks they will smooth out all wrinkles and blemishes. Both lads Indians, pacing over the stacks of carpets with their cartridge paper, calling out in various languages. On a bench on the other side of the street outside the 7/Eleven an old Chinaman had seated himself amongst some aluminum can litter. His walking frame stood before him, carrying a half dozen plastic bags of compressed cans carefully knotted. With his foot he reached for another just beyond him. What a smile, what thanks, came with the aid offered. Such a gap-toothed smile one would trip miles.
The election produced the expected result yesterday, Tony Tan the new Pres. elect. The figures though were unexpected. In the end Tone only gathered low 30s%, beating his chief rival, a figure more independent of the ruling PAP government, by seven thousand votes - point O three per cent. A wise old eagle-eyed birdie in the neighbourhood here—who should remain namele—gave the needed gloss. The PAP split the dissident vote by allowing the two minor candidates to run, despite some questionable qualification at the Electoral Commission level. Thereby Tony T. squeaking through. Nobody needs to teach Chinese the shenanigans of political manipulation. Immediate calls for unity post-election.
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Samurai
A downpour that didn't arrive, sporadic drops only. Foreign skies remained difficult to read for a new-comer. The election too surprised in this one-party city-state, the expected new President narrowly victorious. Post Offices and shops were closed.
A young, contained, neat-as-a-pin doctor named Ing was met at the library cafe. While the library itself was closed, the cafe drew a large crowd.
Boning up on paediatric specialisation, Ing was busy. During the chat the former tough-boy ex-offender happened along.
Alone today the man on his usual run that combined confession and raising of funds with key-rings for sale. The slight tremor of the young doctor at his appearance was understandable. (She had chosen paediatrics over geriatrics—against the demographic here as anywhere else in the First World.)
Shortly after the chap was caught again at the corner traffic light.
Three months he had been on the program. The man immediately understood the unspoken question, the real question behind the one that was voiced. With the rehab likely he had the compulsion to confess his sins at every opportunity.
Without hesitation he volunteered the eight year term. There had been twenty-four strokes of the cane additionally, administered over two sessions. (The law here stipulated twelve strokes maximum at a time, in the presence of a doctor.)
Manslaughter it had been in the course of a fight; victim got the knife in the neck. Quickly the whole burden was divulged.
As he must have done many times previously, the chap re-enacted the event, bringing his grasping right fist down onto craned neck from a height.
Yes, a Geylang lad. A few weeks before he had been sighted flitting under the balconies, with the same rapid movement as in his hawking among the library cafe tables.
The victim had wielded a samurai sword. (Eight years ago the same as today, it was easy to believe such weapons were brought out in the back blocks of Geylang. There had been two deaths there recently after Saturday night brawling.)
Lifting the back of his tee as pedestrians circled proved these were no idle tales. On his lower back the long arc of a healed wound showed a descending slash from left to right; a backhanded sweep for a right-hand opponent.
Late-twenties, unmarried and tattooed like the girl-friend who was on the scene earlier. The cost of living in Singapore made it difficult; there had been no sales that day. Hopefully there had been some good hearings; usually the people at the library cafe tables listened and often reached for their wallets.
By coincidence a copy of The Unfettered Mind was picked up at Kinokuniya the day prior. Seventeenth century letters from an old Zen master offering tuition on how to inhabit the moment, the untrammeled Zen moment. The ultimate state from which to meet one's opponent, his sword, its swing. Life itself.
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Batam, Indonesia (2011)
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
Presidential Election
Election for the Pres. Saturday. One of the candidates came up the street off North Bridge couple of days ago waving from the passenger seat of a car. Usual bright sky-blue colours. Years ago blue was thought to be a cold colour; since the colour of reassurance. Dr. Tan. There are four candidates in the election here. Four Tans. A simple fact. Unrelated. A couple-three other prospective candidates who put their names forward failed to gain approval to run from the electoral commission. One or two of these falling over because they had not headed a corporation with an annual turnover of $100m. Pre-condition of candidacy. Corporate Singapore. How could a chap run a corporation without the experience. Fair enough.
Sunday, August 21, 2011
Satan
Friday, August 19, 2011
Literature's Meaning
A warm, sociable sort the Indian man. With a little encouragement the somewhat dour look quickly lightening. The man is a near contemporary; nothing in that lacklustre visage to be daunted by. Far cry.
Some background. As a general rule, the Indians here have been in the country a shorter time than the Hokkien and Cantonese Chinese, or the Malays of course. The history is of transported convicts and coolie labour for the British plantations. According to official statistics, the Indians represent less than ten per cent of the population. For disadvantage and social problems the numbers run in the other direction.
As has been the case in a number of instances, the panama provided the opportunity for some witticism. (An impulse purchase that has provided some secondary benefit beyond the much needed protection against the tropical sun.)
— It follows you, the Indian fired off first-up after a couple of previous encounters.
It wasn't difficult to develop the play from there. Without the hat he passed the test: confident positive identification. Left at the library table, his task was to secure the exits. (Even with the caning in Sing. there are thieves apparently. The newspaper features such events: a maid’s grab for the household jewelry; a bag snatching; etc.)
The relationship at the Arts & Social Sciences Security Desk developed nice and smoothly. A week ago the man had mentioned his favourite author. Get ready! What might you possibly guess, all you well-read English speaking Westerners? A hint: the author concerned is not exactly contemporary. Let's say he fetches back a couple of hundred years. A clue that can be liberally offered, without danger to the tease. Off you go then. Another clue too: not a household name. Not for the last century and a half, and not now. Neither Wordsworth, nor Scott, nor Tennyson or Austen. Another clue piled on: male; from the generation before these. Excuse the mounting delirium. Yet one more, the last and unhelpful clue — Beware. Earlier still the man, the Indian Security Guard, mentioned an author to whom he has returned over the years: Deepak Chopra. It had been a faux pas to remark on the fact Chopra was an Indian. (A case of thinking out loud that has brought embarrassment before.)
For the answer go to the final paragraphs.
What stopped this author in his tracks was the challenge one afternoon during a longer chat. A direct and forthright question. It came after explaining the reason for the surprise at the favourite author. On the other side surprise was likewise elicited. What, no one in Australia knows this name? Can that truly be?
Immediately upon that without further ado the Security Guard's stabbing question like a knife produced in a dark alley.
— What is literature to you?... Or: What is the importance of literature to you?...
Squaring shoulders in his library uniform. Lifting his chin.
Please understand: no exaggeration whatsoever in the account before you. Everything straight as a die.
The security guard stood straight, almost a soldiery pose. (Nat. Service compulsory here for those without pull, same as everywhere else. A candidate in this current Presidential campaign—Saturday the big spectacle—or the General election earlier in the year—striking a sticky patch having to explain his son's avoidance some years ago. George Bush senior/junior all over again. A quickly buried story, as in that earlier case.) Soldierly and firm. The man served the full term and perhaps stayed on extra. Hardly a casual interrogation. There was no joke involved. The man pulled his head back awaiting the reply.
Literature's meaning?.... A question without notice from an unlikely source. Bang.
A number of Indians encountered here have been Christians. Somehow this coloured the present encounter. The earnestness of the man associated with an implied Christianity.
The answer that was returned reflected this. It became integral to the response.
—….Well, ahmmm…. Without religion one finds other resources, looks elsewhere….
Something like that blushingly given back to the former Indian sepoy.
A doubtful long bow drawn, the man possibly thought. A pause, a little impasse resulting. But that might be exaggerating the matter. Circumstances prevented anything further. The biz card with the dozen and a half favourite authors on the rear presented by way of exchange, to meet the man halfway.
Does the name Oliver Goldsmith ring any bells?
Eighteenth century was guessed right. But a poet as well as a novelist. The particular favourite work which he named was set for the man's O levels—only a short thirty years ago, something like that. Returned to since over the years, not merely a fond memory. Almost certainly.
.
Singapore and Singaporeans
Nance doesn't want to meet younger people. There is nothing to talk about with them. People her own age on the other hand, her women friends, have children, with whom they are preoccupied. Having studied overseas Nance has no friends here from university days. One friend from schooldays who makes an effort to accommodate her is Dorothy. Dorothy understands and sympathizes with Nancy. Once a fortnight or so Dorothy and Nancy catch up. Dorothy has two young children who usually remain with their grannie when Dorothy and Nancy meet. Had Nance been in luck in her marriage she would now be in a position like Dorothy.
This weekend she and Dorothy are going over the Causeway to have their haircut at Johor Bahru. It's little more than an half hour's drive and everything is so much cheaper in Malaysia. A former best friend, Angel, is too preoccupied now with her children to make time for Nancy. Angel had a bad first marriage too, with affairs on both sides. She did though have a child. Second time round she found better luck and now has two children. In earlier days the two friends had much to share.
TV. The telephone, if Nance can find someone with whom to talk. Dinner arrangements. Before bed and the following day.
Virtually every night Nance wakes at four or four thirty and can't get back to sleep. Hopelessness is overtaking her. Next month she turns thirty seven.
Nance doesn't like Singaporean men.
- You may not know Singaporean men do not like Singaporean women, she says. It is well known, she says.
And apartment prices are always on the rise. A place of Nance’s own always seems far out of reach.
Thursday, August 18, 2011
Three Black Marks
The shiner at Mr. Teh Tarik alarming. It was ghastly to behold; truly gruesome. A hard blow involved, not glancing. No possibility of covering, not that the woman tried. No avoiding her post either behind the counter serving the food. In the middle of Ramadan, the holiest month. Mr. T. T. has closed down his kitchen proper for the month and shifted to evening stalls out along the walkway. Other stalls stretched to Haig Road. Mostly food hawkers, certainly the first half. Large crowds from late afternoon, and then the evening groups at the tables. This woman wearing the ripe plum-blue shiner worked at the stall nearest Serai, right at the end. One might risk all tomorrow asking Ricky at that same counter there what it was all about. The Lenovo man, one year junior, with whom warm hail-fellow-well-met greetings had been quickly established. Big dollars willing to be wagered betting he wasn't the perpetrator. Hasn't got it in him. Early on he was in danger of losing the shirt from his back when he wanted to wager that he was the senior. Raised his Lenovo cap in acknowledgement when told. No, the oaf responsible was his burly friend, who Ricky was helping with the food stall these four weeks. (The Chinese computer software mob ordinarily, driver or some-such.) Burly a body-builder not long ago, tough guy barroom brawler. That was who swung the backhander. A punch would have killed the darling. To the wince signaled she merely gave a look of, There You Are! averted her face, turning side-on. Chatted shortly after with a friend, a woman behind the counter with her. A little smile somewhere in the later interaction, before getting away with the food parcel. Actually giving a clear, direct smile. The second or third incidence in these ten weeks in the quarter. The one last week a much older woman, well into her fifties, scaved and fully covered. The upright head she immediately lowered, going on purposefully without breaking stride. That she had been observed was taken. A flash showed. Nothing of any consequence. No business of any one else's—that's what it seemed. Not as deep or dark as the younger. The first sighting was early on, numbers of weeks ago, much less obvious, smaller affair. Years and years in the past back home, or hidden in the suburbs. Nothing of the slightest kind giving indictaion otherwise in all the interactions here witnessed day after day, night after night amongst the people. Indeed every indication in the other direction: cohesive, contented families, often extended, taking simple joys together. Harmony, order, laughter—smiles and healthy laughter. A couple of fantastic fat scarved gals a few weeks ago at Mr. T. T. sitting across from each other and finding wonderful fun together. Heavily made-up faces fetchingly rimmed by their scarves. Not schoolgirls either; well into their thirties and too many goreng pisangs (fried bananas). The brightness and largeness of their pleasure needed acknowledgement and indeed congratulation. Reader, it was duly accorded, in the best fashion that could be managed.
Tuesday, August 16, 2011
Double Bay
China Eastern is the largest airline in China. A big operation. Government enterprise with funds siphoned by the usual princelings and middle managers, captains, crew and ground staff, safe to assume. One can imagine the profits if proper fiduciary controls could be instituted. How large is the leakage is not indicated here.
There is a Singapore China Eastern office of course, unlikely to be small. The witness did not say the practice takes place in all the China Eastern offices throughout the world; it might be a particular local or regional Manager behind it here. At least in the Singapore office this was how it went.
Companies the world over undertake regular bonding exercises in order to lift productivity. Pressures on jobs, on profits; competition, new players with new ideas. Takes a great deal to maintain edge and precedence; team building, unity of purpose. An unending task to keep up to the mark. Must be innumerable ways and means devised across the globe. All the creative powers of the technocrats brought to bear.
How do they manage at China Eastern Singapore? Sounds like something from a manual devised back on the mainland and dispatched to the various branch offices.
Seven forty-five AM, before the herbal teas, a quart hour before the doors and phone lines open, a gathering in the Function Room. Fresh-eyed and bushy-tailed, all together now: chapter such-and-such, verse number so-and-so from the hymn book. A recitation quite likely. Inculcation was the point; the employees had to get it.
The Di Zi Gui roughly translates as Standards for Being a Good Student and Child, written during the Qing dynasty (1661-1772). In three-character verse and based on the Analects of Confucius, memorizing would not be difficult even for Customer Service people with shaky Mandarin. (The level of Mandarin among the Singaporeans a cause for concern for the government. Business opportunities gone begging; other nations that aren't even of Chinese heritage getting a cut of the action above their own. Hokkien and Cantonese more common here.)
Some lovely olde-world moral instruction delivered: dutifulness to parents; standards for younger brothers when away from home; cautiousness, reverence in daily life…. (Touching the glimmer of the past's treasure-house.) Trustworthiness; loving all equally; learning from people of virtue and compassion....
Xi' an—Terracotta Army territory—Laverne, who told the tale she heard from her friend, was greatly surprised at the choice at China Eastern. The group chanting every morning prior to the commencement of work was one thing. But the Di Zi Gui?.... Back in Xi 'an Laverne had it at primary school.
It was certainly a mark above Dale Carnegie and Donald Trump. The Self Enhancement shelves are well stocked here in the book-shops. Beside How to Win Friends... another ten Carnegie titles can be found in many of the stores in Sin’pore.
Girl-friend of Lav's had worked at China Eastern more than a year, Mainlander like Laverne. Understandably, the experience drove the girl half-crazy it seems.
.... Last night beers at Double Bay at the base of Raffles City, a large shopping tower beside the quaint old hotel. High wicker chairs for the smoking area. Marko had landed from Prague where you can have a fag with your drink in the Palace of Culture should you desire. A few heavily leathered old ex-pats at the bar in boating shoes; Little Creatures stubbies (in Fosters holders) not five or even ten a pop. Earlier a wonderful Geylang supper at Shan Dong Seow Tu again—Shandong Little Kitchen. Lav had been keen to see the famous "paradise for men". Telling working girls from the others had Laverne stumped, and Marko not much better. Always nice to show natives their own towns. (Four years Lav had been living in Singapore.) Girl serving at Shan Dong a lively scamp, coming out with a little arithmetic puzzle she had written out on a bill stub. Chap sources goods at such-and-such a price; sells at such-and-such. But in this case given a fake $100 bill. What are his losses?... Laverne and Marko at a loss why a waitress would venture such a thing. And Lav further concerned and blushing when her compatriot started out with some unseemly berating.
NB. An earlier version of "Double Bay" was published in the Hong Kong based Asian Cha Literary Journal, Dec 2013, under the general title "Ancient China: Post- (Almost) LKY Singapore"