Thursday, May 1, 2025

Forest Bathing (Skopje)

 

 

Once entered and ventured within the little thicket in the park opposite the parliament surprised. Toward the low-rise mall on one side numerous trees standing eight or more metres high had been planted close, their thin canopies up high. The simple stone monument by the path with its discontinued fountain had its signage worn away. Numerous peopled benches lined the paths, also worn & weathered. In preparation for the next leg of the trip the nails were pared on one. During the course voices behind had caused a couple of looks round. A girl with her mother it sounded like. There was nothing there. On a third spurt of the same exchange, close behind again, it was up out of the seat and a couple of paces taken... Oh! Oh! White trainers were perched three meters off the ground within the branches of the large leafy tree. Oh! Two prepubescents sitting close opposite each other on a sturdy branch. Beautiful light in the late afternoon sun; mornings were cold in the early Spring here. No smokers were visible; those restless ones  sat along the riverbank. The birds, pigeons, sparrows & others, darted through the tree trunks and searched below, rather than around the benches, as witnessed by only minor spattering. Fancier gardens with flowers & the grass shaved made a different setting and drew another class of person. Here there was no stylish dress and no cameras. Around the mall there stretched long concrete horizontals of shrubs, not as far as one could see any flowers. Even by the fake ruin of columns what was mistaken as a rose bed were again young shrubs. The last thing you noticed, at that hour at least, was the reproduction lamppost of five branches directly in front. One younger chap near the road was on his screen. Half an hour later the young girls continued, perfectly comfortable on their perch. They could not be disturbed with questions.

 





 




Wednesday, April 30, 2025

Psychotherapy (Skopje)

 

En route to the Biblioteka on Bulevar Partizanski, the contemporary anxiety was signed on an entry to the flats above. 



Below in the print shop a sample tee on a rack provided context.




NB. The old Partizans certainly would not have allowed it.



Biblioteka (Skopje)


Chap downstairs directed up at the Municipal Library beside the Architecture University, Skopje. At the counter on the first floor a younger woman took the passport; took 5-6 minutes for the necessaries, before issuing a card. Back down, chap again sliding his perspex. The card was handed over, details entered in a ledger with the yellow, blue topped BIC we used in school, numbered tag presented. Plastic sealed 37, thin key ring attached. With that the chap came around from his room into the hall, much taller than in the chair. Two gaps in his front teeth either side failed to lessen his confidence. Jokes were met without appreciation, only the last about the availability of raki raised a smile. The escort showed the room diagonally opposite as the designated, behind which door four dozen or so small laminex tables were arranged in rows like in the crowded schoolrooms of the ’60s. A good sprinkling of quiet young students, couple of seniors, females predominating. No. 37 sat pretty well slap bang, rickety damn thing and quite inadequate for the gear. Tall leafy trees outside the window was nice. The quiet was pleasing. In-out through a noisy door less so. The monthly MKD100 / AU$1:20 couldn’t be argued. The assigned desk was set for the duration, but we would soon see about that.

 

 

 


 


 

 

Tuesday, April 29, 2025

Rampaging Al (Skopje)

 


It needed to be gotten down. The matter quickly slipped otherwise after the first 5 -10 minutes acclimatising back on the street. Prior to that passing by one reels, skitters, mutters and shakes the head. An onlooker would wonder to themselves, especially given the fine panama.

It was the gigantism first of all around the river, and then the proliferation in reduced form radiating out into the inner ring. The heroic items were the worst offenders, none more so than Big Al on his rearing steed in the centre of the chief plaza. That landmark piece stood in gargantuan bulk, raised highest toward the clouds in the middle of a ceaseless fountain with 3 - 4 dozen gushing spouts. Other spouts there issued from seven lions arranged on the perimeter, likewise outsize.

The chocolate coating meant this could not be bronze, but some kind of amalgam.

When Frane back in Melbourne was sent a pic as a tease the man was made to wonder. Precisely the same galloping steed with the great Croat statesman / lawmaker whatnot Jelacic mounted graced central Zagreb, according to Frane. For some reason the colouring of the red & white North Macedonian flag on a pole in the middle distance did not transmit properly in the mail.

Where are you? Where is this? Where did you get Maxim Gorki? (Sent in a follow-up pic.)

Big Al brandishing his long sword, reins comfortably in the left. Little wonder the conquest of half the known world in very quick time back then, judging from this example.

The terrible earthquake that levelled a good deal of Skopje occurred in 1963. God forbid should any kind of second follow the crash of big Al on the plaza outside the Marriott Hotel would itself register on the Richter.

Father Phil stood on the other side of the Vardar, the old Stone Bridge leading directly. While not quite matching his son’s tonnage, Phil too was something.

Understandably, there was daylight between the pair of giants and the lesser roundabout. Cyril & Methodius probably ranked next at around two-thirds size. Then fighters from the wars against the Turks, martyrs, statesman, lawgivers and indeterminate notables. Some church fathers and other indeterminates otherwise. (Some of the IDs had slipped from the pedestals and many had never been specified.)

Oh golly! A painter clutching three brushes against the pallet on his chest was discovered near the Archeological Museum. Unnamed. Possibly locals could make the identification.

Maternal wonders near Phillip occupied another large fountain, one of them heavily pregnant. The ladies being all comfortably seated was pretty clearly revisionist history, as the Macedonians were no better than the Montenegrins, the menfolk traditionally mounted on donkeys, while the women carted the firewood, water, &etc.

Stone Bridge was the oldest crossing over the river, rebuilt on the old foundations numerous times across the centuries. In its centre electric young gypsies thrashed little drums that carried hundreds of metres, well past Alex on one side and into the fortress on the rise on the other. Sometimes the gypsy seniors gathered in passing it seemed and put on what appeared an impromptu a dance, simply taken by the rhythm. Brilliantly vivacious kids.

As the days past, after numerous and closer inspections of the specimens along the river and over the pair of new bridges, the other only slightly enlarged sculptures of nameless other heroes, the fuller picture emerged.

            The clear hint was given on the bridges and their flanks. All along there the pieces were of the precise same size, produced in the same factory at the same time, special order. Dating from around thirty years ago was the first guess. Mid-90s, shortly after the collapse of the Second Yugoslav Federation. (The Royalist was the first, formed at the same time as the Czechoslovak union.)

After the fragmentation and the hurried nation-building, Macedonia, Croatia, Slovenia and all the others were in need of new / old symbols fitted for current requirements. Along the waters of the Vardar in Skopje and over the pedestrian bridges in particular, the civic spaces were thickly filled. Copiously. No stone had been left unturned.

With the decision for such numbers the task became unique, individual expressions, character defining gestures and postures. Here every effort was made: the contemplative chin clasp, hand on heart, half akimbo, hand behind back; the stretched arm making the key point, crossed in front, head confidently upraised, bowed. Concerns of State understandably predominated.

Abstracted, turned aside statesman were reserved for the bridge leading to the Public Prosecutor’s Office. The Archaeological Museum gathered the earlier eras, classical & Roman / Renaissance.

By some good fortune the old Stone Bridge was left completely unadorned. There had been some curbing there. Someone of the committee had eloquently spoken and carried the day against the prevailing opinion.

The Great Al and his dad the other side could not be crowded with helots either. Again someone with heft had insisted on the point and held out. Amidst all the rest of it that was a notable accomplishment.

The Archeological Museum and the Public Prosecutor’s Office was split by the  Electrical Communication Agency, where an Adonis & his Consort clutching a dove to her covered breast again in massive form flanked the entry doors. (Foreign Affairs was one further along.)

All three buildings were instant classics from the years following the example of the Parthenon and later resurgence, commissioned and built at the same time as the statuary.

Sixty-five or seventy feet the columns of the Archeological rose, closely spaced.

The other pedestrian bridge leading to the PP gathered only suits and mostly half-length coats, some removed. The pieces here were more recently produced, it seemed, with only faint traces of oxidisation. All the figures on the Archeol Bridge were thoroughly saturated by the green smears.

Well, the dating turned out wrong. The bronze notice of the Archeological bridge noted 2012 construction.

Going back to the other, surprisingly the Bridge of Civilizations in Macedonia dated a year later. Either its statuary had been commissioned quite some years earlier, or the patina had been added for authenticity.

On the streets nearby there was the more common urban sculpture. A classic bearded mendicant—homeless the tag added—could have been confused with one of the more modest church fathers. Musicians on the corner near the Art Hotel, where a room was reluctantly taken after a long slog from the railway station, included a jolly drunk raising his bottle. Near the smiling shoe shine lad down on his stool on Makedonija, the chief pedestrian mall, a real one set up shop. The brash, confident gal striding onward with head flung back chatting to an intimate on her phone deserved the attention of the art terrorist cell in Skopje.

 




Monday, April 28, 2025

Oracle (Kosovo)


 

Out of nowhere really the name came back. Not the figure of the old man, there had never been any blockage there; that was always on hand for ready reference.

Remarkably, it was over forty years ago that the single, brief meeting had taken place. Making the simple calculation produced the usual slight startling and adjustment. We were ourselves well advanced along the path now, yep.

Old Andrija was looked after in the Vala, the Valley, around the hill a short walk from Uncle Peter’s house, by a distant relative, some kind of niece a few branches removed on the genealogical tree.

Her name likewise came back a minute or two after Andrija’s own was recalled. Anka with her iron grey hair, her apron and black skirts. Not young herself; pan-faced just like her namesake, Aunt Anka.

This was the first woman encountered who bore that name again after terribly tragic Aunt.

Strina Anka’s tragedy would not properly emerge for another decade and more after the namesake’s appearance. The fullness of it had been well buried like all tragedies over time—borne and carried singly, spoken of more and more rarely, and in that way slowly slipping even from the victims. Slowly and surely slipping; but never entirely. That was impossible.

Old Andrija had some miserable Partizan communist pension, and his great niece Anka may have had her own even more miserable. Throwing their lot in together they survived somehow.

The Vala held a church that in those years functioned on the marker days of the calendar, where again with Petar a service was attended not long after the visit to our clansman Andrija. The nearer Church of St. Petar above Uncle’s house had been boarded up for decades.

Petar was in his early 80s at the time of the visit, wobbly on his own pins after being hit by a car some years before on the magistrala en route to his vineyard, sitting astride his donkey. For the visit to see old Andrija he had needed the donkey too, likely a replacement of the other.

Old Andrija was in much poorer shape. Somehow he had been helped out of his room by Anka to receive his guests, hulking across to take a seat at table. A desultory conversation ensued between he and Petar, who was not given much to conversation in latter years.

Like the gait of the old men, the talk staggered along fitfully, Petar here being forced to lead the way. Andrija spoke hoarsely from a dry throat. There must have been coffees made from some precious store. In those years of the early ‘80s green coffee beans of a number of kilograms were brought in the luggage as precious gifts and doled out among the extended family.

The men continued churning out one thing and another, with little to claim the attention of the listener on the side. Anka didn’t sit at table. There might not have been a fourth chair, but usually women of her age, when they sat at all, assumed a place on a stool beside the stove.

The particular words spoken by Andrija that did immediately draw attention, even at that time when so little of family and larger history too was known, failed to strike in any special way at the time. That young self was incapable of receiving such information properly, with the gravitas it deserved. And yet the words were heard with some alertness and never slipped from mind.

The precise words themselves were not recalled. It was the essential core that was collected, as if old Andrija had passed it like a precious keepsake across the table.

It is no doubt a false and dramatised memory imagining that piece of family, or at least clan history, spoken by this old man, seemed channeled directly not to Petar, but to the young clansman newly arrived from Amerika. That was very unlikely.

Petar himself seeming indifferent to what we had heard perhaps aided the impression. Possibly the matter was no news to him; of no consequence at that late stage of his life.

Every other part of that morning, the circling around the hill, entering the house, the emanation of the old man as if behind a curtain, his niece and the halting conversation, stands on firm foundations.

A man of that age, at the end of his life, with his last breath more or less, speaking like an oracle.

Shabbily dressed in an old suit jacket, croaking like a disembodied voice coming from the walls or underground, and closed-eyed mostly.

Most of the time Andrija had been turned in Petar’s direction; not exactly looking at his chief interlocutor, but more or less pointed toward him. What vision he may have retained behind his glasses at that age when he did open his eyes was a question. A blind Oracle close enough.

It was unclear whether he and Petar had ever met previously. It didn’t look like.

The year was 1981. Petar would live to ’85 or ’86. In the middle of the night the day before the plane was to take the young nephew back to Amerika after another subsequent visit, the third in the communist era, while the federation still remained, Uncle Petar’s coma ended in a relatively easy death. A vigil had been kept up about two weeks.

Andrija may in fact have passed away a month or two after the meeting at the Vala; there is vague memory of the news. Andrija’s revelatory words to come shortly...

A funeral oration for Petar was delivered by the closest male heir, the nephew from Downunder, confused by so many of the elders in Boka with the States. “Fortunate Petar,” Uncle was called because of that circumstance. Even on the earlier first and second visits men Petar’s own age had expressed the view—startling at the time of hearing—that wouldn’t Petar be blessed if he happened to pass away during his nephew’s stay, the son of one of his two younger brothers; being lowered into the grave by him.

This was voiced by at least two or three older members of the circle. At least one woman too had independently joined that chorus.

A challenge hearing that. And hearing again and again. For his part, Petar mostly gave a ready, perfunctory agreement.

The text of the funeral speech had been written by the Slovene husband of Petar’s eldest granddaughter, the daughter of cousin Mare, who after the death as we began carting her father’s coffin out from the upstairs sala, explained she would not be attending the internment. Women did not do so, apparently; not closest kin. At least not the older generation. Petar’s younger two daughters, Ljube and Danica, were in the party.

Daughters, sons-in-law, maternal nephews, young adult grandsons—none of these were properly fitting for the oration over the grave once Petar had been lowered.

After the text had been parsed, the longer, unfamiliar words broken into syllables on the slip of paper, the matter was delivered with such effect that audible cries were heard part through the funeral speech and continuing to the end.

It was not only Petar’s two youngest brought to tears at their father’s grave. Fellow villagers up at the heights, neighbours down at Bijela and Zelalici, others from wider a field, found themselves overcome listening.

The example of the far distant young scion, sole male heir of four brothers, proficient in the language, handsome and cutting a fine figure in his borrowed suit, returned to dutifully perform such function, stirred a great many hearts. Such a pleasure, one could call it, being able to satisfy requirements.

It was a surprisingly large turnout, possibly made larger by the kind of occasion prepared.

Who had lowered Andrija into the ground thereabouts and spoken some words over his grave was unclear; almost certainly it had taken place after his young American clansman had left the country. Another elder of the tribe had been buried in a grave that a clansman had prepared in advance for himself, when finances made it difficult for the former to find a plot. (When the time came the other would follow on a higher tier.) Possibly a similar arrangement had been needed for old Andrija without direct heirs, without close kin, or outliving both possibly.

Born sometime around the turn of the century, Andrija, three or four years Petar’s senior. Speaking at his table in the Vala information that had been imparted from generations past. Centuries indeed past. The last discreet function in Andrija’s long life, safe to say.

Five centuries ago the decisive upheaval had occurred that had uprooted Andrija’s forebears and those of countless others. Andrija voiced that knowledge to his clansmen gathered at his little table.

Some few years after Andrija and Uncle Petar’s demise the six hundred year commemoration of the disaster at Kosovo Field would draw Milosevic’s famous speech. Weeks prior the political firebrand had stirred such numbers of Serb hearts when he pronounced down in the Autonomous Region that no “Turk”, no Shiptar, had the right to beat a Serb. There had been inflammatory reports. B&W footage existed in the archives of a brief media grab, in passing, it seemed. Nevermore allowed. The Defender had arrived on the scene.

Milosevic who had had a grandparent killed during the war, from memory, by local quislings doing the dirty work of the Occupiers. There had been some poisonous political element in both parents separately suiciding. Montenegrin heritage himself, from the Vasojevic clan. A kind of Netanyahu analogue; one who would answer for his crimes.

From Kosovo it had been that the clan had fled centuries before, Andrija had declared to his clansmen over coffee at his table in the Vala.

The holy ground where so much Serbian blood had brought up poppies. Where Tzar Lazar and his nine sons perished. Where the Kosovan Maiden would search for her youngest brother, or fiancé.

That part of old Andrija’s utterance had been clearly heard.

If Petar found the revelation unremarkable, still, delivering it, old Andrija seemed to be offering new, private information. It was possible Uncle Petar had asked about our host’s roots.

Even in the early ‘80s some of the scattered houses in Village Uble were still covered with thatch. The space within that had been shared with the small herds even in mother’s time continued in one or two cases the same. One old spinster of our Radonic clan had sheep blundering indoors during a visit.

Situated just over the Herzegovinian border within Venetian and later Austro-Hungarian authority: Village Uble, echoing the old Beatles’ song.

It fitted requirements for a refuge settlement from ages past.

The other hills roundabout held precisely the same. Grandma Ruza, Rose had fled the Herzegovinian interior with her family in order to settle at Krivosije, close by the Montenegrin border.

The living, the endurance and survival in the stony heights, was a heroic feat in itself. 

Uble was a local term for spring. A source of water on a mountain plateau a few hundred kilometres west of Ottoman authority was salvation.

In the Muslim Malay lands on the SE Asian Equator the prostrations with the forehead to the ground seemed fitting for prayers of thanksgiving. Fitting for pleas of intercession and commemoration of generations past. Upright Christian crossing seemed less wholehearted by comparison. Even more so again the full length outstretching, with forehead to the ground, that one saw occasionally within the gates of Hindu temples.

Those worshippers too had bound up in their observance the ones who had come before. Rituals of inheritance.






Monday, April 21, 2025

Always With Us

 

Somehow on the Easter Sunday there were too many manikins pressed against the shop windows, with disproportionately flashy wear compared to the street. The old town near the water in Thess was plenty affluent, but not really representative of many of the displays. One truncated lower torso bending back into the shop may have been a not so subtle Greek jest. Mostly the beggary was ambulant; it was chiefly around the churches that the beggars sat fixed on the pavement and ledges. A chap on crutches was gifted a couple brass coins by the Alexandroupoli teacher this afternoon, who dropped one, followed by a second after a clear pause, into the receptacle, when both pieces were in his fingers together. In order to underline to the chap the definite pair, most likely. Hobbling, dark, clearly woebegone, the fellow had ignored the panama. Clearly no good had ever come from those. A gypsy, the Alexandroupoli indicated. Prior to that chap an earlier of similar age and colouration, though less broken, had approached asking in Greek and quickly switching when informed. How is your health? In the evening the poor, frightful lady at the fast food corner joint by the hotel a few notches above the worst villains in that line presented a truly sorry sight. Again, like the Alex man, very likely a junior, though with the usual lag in comprehension. A slow-moving lady who gave off much body odour from beneath her jacket. In hand she carried a number of dirty, flattened medical prescription packets that showed her condition. The shared heritage was assumed in this case. Standing close, it was a difficult confrontation. A single euro was hardly sufficient for her needs and fell far short of the cost of the food piled on the plate on the table. The lady brandished the flattened packs and indicated the food pile. Most certainly she had a point, a single euro was only one seventh the cost of that pasta and veg, which you were about to consume in one sitting. What a face she showed! What brow etching and shaking jowls! With the Gazan photos the sharpness was heightened. The Arabs & Turks were near here; it was at Alexandroupili that the Macedonian conqueror had crossed into Asia Minor, the teacher informed, therefore the name of his city. The odour of this beggar was eclipsed by her person while she stood appealing near two minutes for at least one euro more.

Thessaloniki