Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Celebration


Our shopping centers must be full of similar regular entertainment. Chadstone, Southland and the rest. Even the celebration of the founding of the Armed Forces perhaps, as down here in the forecourt of Singapore National Library on Victoria Street. The Hollywood musical is the form: high wattage amp blaring, a chorus line of young kids stepping, MC calling children up onto the stage for mock interviews and give-aways. 

The camp element fully represented with the soldier boys impressively kitted out, rifles in place of batons, thrusting and lunging. The chief MC spent a lot of time in the US. Voice perfect for this kinda thing. Almost as good as the original—rhythms, jokes, fillers all adeptly handled. Given the importance of the particular matter—National Security after all—the girl is probably from the TV ranks, carefully selected for the position.

         Better, Stronger this year's tag.

         The flights of the migs and the heavier bombers not as numerous lately. Given the size of the island, invariably the planes fly very low. How else to land on their own territory. Not surprisingly, the Malaysians have been complaining of encroachments into their air space. Very easily done here. By the time the jets are up and air-borne, deceleration would need to be activated in order not to over-shoot the territory. Thousands of invasions the Malaysians have recorded in the past few months, all deftly denied by the Singaporeans, initially with the standard no comment.

A tricky little balance in power and neighbourly relations, here as anywhere else. 

Yesterday's front page news reported an amiable exchange of land on the border. The matter had been attempted a number of years without success. Even old man Lee Kwan Yew didn't manage to bring it off ten years ago, after numerous diplomatic meetings.

         A couple of generations ago of course, before the split, Malaysia and Singapore were one country. The Joo Chait area now interesting as a minority Malay quarter. It and Geylang by far the most interesting places thus far, three weeks into the trip.


Karaoke (May26)



The market stalls and the stage that had stood beside Joo Chait Complex the last fortnight had been all but disassembled overnight. Two Saturdays running a talent quest had featured, a kind of Open Mic Karaoke, where young and old had participated. A large crowd had been drawn Sunday for the finale. Great number of karaoke bars roundabout. (From memory, Bambang Yudohonyo was a keen crooner.) 
         The event might have been devised by the traders, the music a draw for potential customers. Certainly the people came. Some afternoons a professional band played, the lads in their stage suits like the APEC leaders for the group photos. 
         The familiar faces from the street climbed up on stage and collected the mike like seasoned pros. Older Elvis fans sporting dyed jet manes; pint-sized Suzi Quattros with elastic G-strings showing above jeans when they squatted low with the pull and tug of the song. 
         All the contestants knew the moves. Video hits played big in this part of the world, clearly.
         Geylang Serai is the largest Malay quarter in Singapore. Scarved hijab women, young & old. Nails, hands and feet brightly painted, the fleshiness of faces accentuated by tightened scarves. Lipstick, face powder, eye-liner and lashes, really going to town.
         G. Serai dazzled the live-long day. The vivid flowers of the former forest trucked into the market opposite bloomed in the street fashions.
         None of these women in the traditional dress got up on stage during the fortnight. They might have known the moves and had the voices, but these talents were kept under wrap, left for the mirror behind closed doors perhaps. Meanwhile, no lack of appreciation for those who could turn it on, the Suzi Qs very much included.
         Sunday there must have been a couple hundred in the audience for the finale, one of the surprising stars the tubby carpet seller on the near corner. Many kept the same seats over the fortnight. Passersby with their shopping greeted and detained. Children & babies. Two or three dozen bikers attended Sunday in full leathers. 
         The audience jived in front of their chairs, old ladies rocking in their seats, a smashing good time had by all. 
         Entirely alcohol free of course, when it looked like spirits had been lifted by a wee dram. Even in the supermarket at the bottom of Joo Chait Complex it did not seem to be available on the shelves.




Monday, June 27, 2011

The Iron Horse


The bicycle feature. Helmets nowhere to be seen (sometimes the lycra lads sport them). Nights rarely a light in sight. Pillion passengers are common, usually in the style of the post-war French: cobblestoned street, fountain, ornate facades, and rounding the corner one of those heavy, dark work-horses with the long-haired girl seated on the luggage rack, long dress hiding the wheel. On Geylang the working girls are driven to Love hotels in this same fashion. Erect grannies and grandpas ride up and down using the bells for greeting those at the pavement tables as much as for warnings. Hawkers have their wares arranged—plastic sacks of tea hanging from the handlebars, soft toys mounted, boxes of curry puffs. Cardboard and aluminum fossickers. More striking still the braking system usually employed by the foreign workforce, the mainland Chinese and Indians. Fred Flintstone resort on the thoroughfares of Singapore, even Victoria Street itself—steel-capped work-boot coming off the pedal at the intersection, thick heavy sole providing excellent traction. With practiced weaving and dodging through the heavier, less nimble vehicles, anticipation of the moves and the stalled traffic, what more could one need? The young fellow in the hard-hat just now through and away.

Saturday, June 25, 2011

Commerce on Geylang



Top Stainless Steel Industry double frontage (shop benches, display cabinets, ovens chained on the footpath). Palyul Nyingma Buddhist Association's red interior highly decorated next door, the shoes massed at the entry 9 pm on a Saturday belonging to the mainly young people visible over the floor. Beside Katong Dental Surgery; on the other side of which De Sheng Trading “Specialising in Car Aircon, Battery, Alternator, Starter, Wiring”. Sign out on the stand in front mounted on rusty truck wheel-hubs. The mechanics and tyre replacement lads work into the evening, footpath strewn with their tools and pieces. Finally, last in the snapshot of the row—it goes on and on—3 Wines Pte Ltd, where they had a tasting yesternight. Never before such a gathering witnessed in the area, the black of the dresses and their cut marking the women out from the more colored, ornamental night ladies who pass up and down on this commercial strip grouped in precisely this same way for three kilometers. 
         Geylang. The middle end. The Malay quarter down at the lower.

Friday, June 24, 2011

Poets & Sages (Oct23)


 

 

A dozen or more gathering this afternoon in the windy forecourt of the library. There must have been some kind of tunnel effect from the towers on every side—Raffles, the Ritz Carlton, the office and housing blocks. 

At the head of the table on the far side the man in the chair gave a fine salutation, directed at the panama quite likely. None of these men wore hats, yet none of them were dark either, like many Chinese could become transplanted on the Equator.

An active, engaged assembly again today, even without the presence of the usual leader of the group. Earlier in the afternoon the man had been sighted in his usual seat; now his absence created space for some of the others, if they could rise to the occasion. Without this chap's steering, without his lead, it was a question what the others might manage on their own resources.

For a time the conversation proceeded in brief exchanges from various points around the two joined tables. Small little ventures offered that drew brief answers and elaborations.

None in this gathering seemed likely to hold court in the manner of the absent leader. Under that man’s sway the group often seemed cowed or hesitant. Through his harangues, as they seemed, the men always sat quietly, without meeting his eye.

In rhythm and tone the replacement speaker now was far less impressive. There was no lack of gesturing and volume; the body posture, the way the man held upright in his seat—and at that age—clearly marked him as alpha male. Yet somehow even quite long speeches from him were not especially compelling. Liberal, indulgent smiles that hardly left his face. This was no chairman of the board.

This afternoon a middle-aged woman sat among the men, beside the chap who had saluted the panama. Usually the men were unaccompanied. They came after lunch and sat until late into the afternoon. As in the present case, there were often more than a dozen gathered in the inner section near the library entry. Once or twice a smaller group was found in the main seating by the street.

Neat, dapper men; shirts and slacks, more than half with pens clipped in the pockets. The linked metal watchbands that pinched hairy wrists and were popular a couple of generations ago prominent. 

Most of the men were close to eighty; two or three clearly beyond. It was difficult to judge their situation in life, age having leveled distinctions. The generic clothing and lack of ornament produced uniformity.

They all lived close to the city centre, it seemed. Though men of substance, somehow they didn’t appear to be retired managers or businessmen; that was not the impression conveyed. Again perhaps age masking matters.

All fine, hale specimens. 

The female newcomer sat listening for the most part; contributions from her when they came were minor. More than anything it was apparent there was appreciation from the woman for what she received in the gathering.

With the drift of conversation and its small measures, attention wandered. An initial impression suggested an uneventful meeting in the offing, a quiet little hiatus between lunch and dinner. Without the forceful, dominant leader there might have been a little more ease apparent. Good-natured exchanges; regular smiles. The afternoon slowly ebbing.

There was hardly an empty seat in the place, largely due to the size of this gathering of old men, who had collected added chairs to accommodate their number.

At some point in the lulled motions a voice at the far end, directly opposite the panama salute—the counterpart of that man almost ten metres distant—had launched into a little oration, it sounded like. The particular rhythm was what drew attention.

In fact all other sound and movement had been stilled. There was none of the shuffling and turning of heads this way and that. The eyes were not necessarily focused on the far end of the table, but the grip of attention was unmistakable.

The figure of this speaker was not promising. There was nothing like the firmness of the absent one. This man bent over in his seat as he spoke, his jaw hanging loosely. Of the entire group he was perhaps the least physically impressive. 

False teeth may have been a bad fit. Keeping his mouth closed when he listened did not seem possible for this man.

As he recited now from his chair, the man beat out rhythm and line, not just with his hand, but with his whole person. The nodding head, rolling shoulders, the beaming eyes were carried by the motion within.

Fully in the sway of his piece, the man had seized the attention of the entire group.

Clearly some well-known, authoritative text was being cited. Something the others had either not heard before, or slipped in memory. The lilt and movement made it clear it was verse and nothing else. 

There were perhaps a dozen long lines altogether, four or five stanzas possibly. All without fumbling or pause. Even with the less than impressive figure the man cut, the performance was commanding. When he was done it seemed an exceptional, unrepeatable feat that could only have come off in the most favourable of circumstances.

The girl at one of the tables who was asked later for translation guessed old Chinese opera. The dialect defeated her; Cantonese possibly, she agreed. On the other side a couple of lads a little older engaged with an iPhone took no interest in the old men.

Rather than completely stunning the gallery, immediately following this initial performance, it was the man at the other end, the one who had acknowledged the panama in fact, who rose to the challenge. Now he was returning in kind lines of his own. A shorter passage of verse here, but with the same unmistakable hallmarks of rhythm and movement.

One could only sit and gape. The elegance was bewitching.

After this reply came some rejoinders from the sidelines, commentary and interpretation it might have been, from more than one quarter.

The two men either end of the tables had taken up their positions as if pre-arranged, by prior consent from the others. As in ancient times, a staged oratorical contest.

To the second's rejoinder there now followed more from the first man, the slack-jawed bent man, who had a good deal stored in memory. Once more the chap gave a smooth recitation, shorter than the first. but highly apposite. Numbers of lines again and lacking nothing of force and conviction. 

Something had been clinched now; his opposite number was left a little cowed. In the theatre the silence and attention was rarely stretched so tight.

Old men, four score and ten, one of whom leaned on his walking stick even seated at the table. A stroke was perhaps responsible for his dragging gait. To think that men of this age could hear anything so completely captivating.

The duel was over. The lead speaker appeared somewhat dissatisfied; what he had delivered seemed insufficiently acknowledged. The bright sunniness of the man at the other end beside the woman had avoided the issue perhaps.

Other voices entered the discourse; conversation fragmented. The man with the poets and sages at his fingertips brooded on. Jaw hung low, teeth visible to the gums. The picture he presented could not have been further from his performance moments before. A jaw could never be imagined to hang as low as that.

These chaps could not be retired academics. They were of the older generation; the ease of manner and the knowing came from primary sources here.

Two of the men handed over books to others, one of which particularly made a slow round of the tables. One of the men leafed through looking for a passage. It was he who must have produced the volume in the first place. Along the inner line of the corridor, back turned, the man sat in the middle of the throng. This man was at the upper limit of the age group. Unlike the others, he carried some bulk, jowls hanging, owlish eyes accentuated by high brows.

Passage found, the open page showed sparse columns of characters, with headings for individual poems or stanzas. Seeming to know that a reading was in store, the other men waited. When the owlish man had found his place, he gave voice.

Short lines again, much shorter than the earlier recitations from memory. This was a very particular kind of reference, a little abstruse possibly. An item out of the box.

Shortly before this reading there had been a bolstering of numbers; one or two other men joining the circle. Newcomers and the others alike all listened respectfully.

Another book too passed round. The paperback from which the quotation had been taken went back into the Owl’s pink supermarket shopping bag. 

It was replaced by a foolscap exercise book. When the Owl leafed through the pages the paper was discoloured and where he stopped sparsely spaced, neat penciled characters showed in columns down the page. It was an old notebook, long in use, long carted around. Mandarin characters could not be scrawled carelessly

 

 

 


Thursday, June 23, 2011

Mee Rebus (June25)




Should have remembered from last time with Albadorah. Mee Rebus is a light kind of stew over noodles; in this case egg omitted in favour of potato & green bean-like pieces that didn't really look like paprika. Not the hot kind anyway. The colour innocuous enough. Perhaps the seeds should have given the hint. A better follow-up to the Listerine gargling of half an hour before would have been difficult to find. Cereal for breakfast impossible to procure in this eastern quarter of the city. An American suggested a hotel buffet as the only option. At eighteen dollars for that privilege, it's rice, noodles & veg for the duration here. (Kellogs Cornies from the supermarket shelves declined, thank you very much.)
         The MRT far less crowded after 10am. Dozing figures all along the route into town - the train, young work crew at the eateries, corpse-like figures of old men with rigor mortis stretched in shady alcoves of the shopping complexes. Those without aircon collapse here mid morning. Had it going throughout the last two nights in the hotel room.
         An interesting room on the 14th floor of a HBD inspected last night. Very nice couple of Indians: journo landlord and IT tenant. Housing towers all-round, not dissimilar to our Housing Commission, but better maintained. Top end of Geylang appealing as a location. Without aircon how to adapt?
         From the eighth floor of the Singapore National Library - Arts and Humanities Reference - the HBDs outside the window fly their flags on the sunny side of the building, waiting for the sun to emerge from the cloud. The washing hangs from short poles that emerge from the balconies at a slight up-tilt. Condos in the more expensive estates forbid the practice. Property values take account of any hint of the slovenly, of course.
         A final tidbit: a reminder at these tables here that sneezing is always choked in Singapore. A full, outward, completed sneeze is never let fly in this city state. Not among the down-at-heel; neither in the CBD. The sound is like a sneeze that escapes one at the last second, never quite coming off. My bet is it's another remnant of the British - like caning and so much else here. From the time of a public health drive during a flu epidemic, perhaps.




Ascot



The MRT announcer's voice makes you think of early sixties' pleated skirts, frilly blouses and high heels — in fact the prevailing style on the streets in the inner hub here. Ascot back in the news again and Princess Margaret.
Please Mind The Platform Gap.
Lavender..... Lavender.
The Suspicious Parcels warning.
Makes you think of rough handling, lipstick smears, earnest wordless hammer behind a closet door.
The forms of empire have not ended here. Somerset. Admiralty. Lavender. Raffles..... The merry-go round continues, called by the Dux of the elocution class from the boyhood school of Lee Kwan Yew.
In the old British manner of social order, they still cane here judicially a few thousand times a year — tied and bent naked, buttocks protruding. The full-force strength of the assigned disciplinarian stipulated in the statutes (paid per stroke). The concession to humanitarian concerns no more than twenty four strokes administered on a single occasion. In addition to padding of the kidneys.
Oh but that honey with the jeweled vowels! A captivating torment.